David,
It can be done but it will take some finessing and figuring out where
things are stretched or distorted. The gap at the bottom of the A-post is
caused either by a stretched or cracked wheel arch or the way it rests on
the frame at the front (or both). Getting the correct shape on the wheel
arch will require some 1/4 or 3/8 steel rod curved to fit the inner lip and
tack welded along the diameter. This will really stiffen the front. Check
also for any distortion you may have in the radiator shroud inside the
bonnet. There is a brace between the headlights that the shroud is welded
to and these can get metal fatigued also causing the gap. The wings can
usually be drawn in by adjusting the diagonal braces near the bonnet
hinges. You may also just need to muscle them in a bit too. Inspect the
brace that the hinges bolt to as these sometimes stress crack near the
hinges or could be distorted. I had all these problem on one of my bonnets.
No one repair will correct things, but cumulatively they will.
Gerard
At 6:31 PM -0400 8/8/01, SDOliner@aol.com wrote:
>I have removed the bonnet from my Bugeye, as I am pulling the engine and
>transmission. Anyway the bonnet is "bowed," i.e. the fender skirts are 1/2"
>wider (on each side) than the rocker panels. The whole thing really didn't
>sit as well I would have liked (almost no gap on top and 1" gap at the back
>bottom of the bonnet). I think I can take car of this by shimming under the
>hinges. Any ideas on how to pull the Bonnet in and have it stay there?
>I thought about putting a woodworking web clamp around the wide point and
>pulling it back, but I am concerned about putting crease in the sides.
>
>David Oliner
>60 Bugeye
>67 TR 4A
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