I'm certainly no expert in this area. In fact, I have so little experience
in this area, that I can't even imagine one that has so much play that it
could be glued in off center! I don't think I'd even use one that was that
far gone. The only ones I've ever experienced are just barely lacking in
contact force (relatively easy to drive in) that the dimpling would (in my
imagination) increase the contact area all along the surce of the bearing
race. Maybe this isn't the case. I've never actually done this myself, but
was only repeating advice I've heard from others. I had the impression this
was an accepted practice(?). I think I'd opt for the adhesive route if I
were facing this situation anyway.
Anyway, you learn new stuff everyday.
Gerard
At 7:06 PM -0500 7/30/01, JustBrits wrote:
>Chris, etal:
>
><<Don't try to take up the slack with dimples. >>
>
>AGREED in the area that this is NOT a "shadetree" kinda job.
>
><< The bearing races are
>*hard* and they just aren't intended to be whacked hard enough to leave
>a dimple.>>
>
>Well, the "real" way is to let a machinest do it. The "process" is called
>"pinning" and does in fact work just fine for VERY small variances. Let the
>"expert" call the shot. (I do<G>) (shut up, etal!!<G>)
>
><<However the adhesive route *is * the way I'd do it. >>
>
>True enough, bit I would still defer to a machinest. Sometime with a (er)
>"oversized" "hole" even Permatex will not do the job (way easy to get an
>"imbalance" due to excess "glue" in a "hole").
>
>Stop, I am not being SA. What I mean in the process of "rounding out"
>OVALING is more prone. ergo, of balance when using Permatex. Yep, not
>mush, but is does not take "much" .
>
>And suspension parts mean you (or someone else's) LIFE!!
>
>Ed
>
>PS: Sorry GB is not receiving this<G>!!
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