Hi Gang!
Well I'm back in Ireland after my visit to Uncle Sam. Had a wonderful
time, especially being able to get to Watkins Glen. "Our" era of Sports
Cars is in safe hands, judging by the quality and quantity of '50s/'60s/
'70s sports/racing cars I saw there. Unfortunately, could not spend a
lot of time there.
Also, it was delightful to meet Gary and Chuck there, and later that night,
Frank in Toms River. Thanks for the warm welcome, guys, and the very kind
words later on this list. Hope you all have a most enjoyable Holiday. My
apologies that it has taken so long to post this, but that dirty four letter
word called w**k sorta got in the way. Have been mentally drained.
Also, while in US, I talked with Paul A., and got his kit. Hi Paul! It is
extremely well thought out and made. (Carried the flywheel out and back as
hand luggage. Talk about fun at the airport check-ins! Security at Gatwick
really had a difficulty believing that it was not a landmine). Presently, I
am getting the Sunny box cleaned by blasting, along with the rear axle.
Everything is almost ready to go back together once I pick up those bits.
This leads me to my question for the List:-
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What is a proper torque for the rear hub lock (retaining) nuts?
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The Mk 1 workshop manual I have just says "When the nut has been tightened"
without any torque data that I can see; Haynes does not even get that far.
So, how tight is tight? In "Tuning BMC Sports Cars", Mike Garton simply says
(p.18) "Rear hubs also present a problem. They must always have the bearing
lock nut absolutely tight."
Reason I am so concerend about this, is that the N/S/ bearing had been turning
in its housing, (I have a replacement hub). DPO had used a cold chisel to
tighten
the nut! I can't find a reference in the archives, nor on the 'Net, bar one
which
suggets 180 lbs./ft. Now that seems way too much for such a skinny nut. So,
what
do you advise, please?
Later,
Ron in Ireland
'59 Sprite "Oggibip".... almost with 5-speed.
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