Daniel, you're right about safety wiring. When I was training to be an aviation
mechanic, we spent about a week of mornings practice wiring, and were not
allowed to use twisting pliers!!! We did it till our hands bled, but now it is
second nature, both with and without pliers. It helps, when doing it by hand,
to pull the two strands way apart after first crossing them, then doing the
twisting. There is a cheap tool, called I think a "hog nose", looks like a
screwdriver, but the end has two holes in it for the wire. I've never had much
luck with them tho. Pliers cost about $20 US, but be advised that they too take
some practice too.
About the jet cap wiring....how about drilling one ear of the micky mouse cap
and wiring it to a hole you would have to drill in one of the float bowl cover
screws. Should be able to do this with a hand held drill, I think. Or wire
around the fuel filter fitting (not so pretty, and not really official). Or,
on my carb there is an unused hole on the LH side next to the butterfly shaft
bushing (probably for the idle rpm set screw in some installations?)
Hope this helps. Geoff Branch
----- Original Message -----
From <Daniel1312 at aol.com>
To: <spridgets@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, May 01, 2000 6:54 AM
Subject: Lockwiring & DCOE top cover screws.
> Hi list,
>
> I've just discovered how difficult lockwiring is - especially so without
> lockwiring pliers. After using a lot of wire in practice I was reasonable
> satisfied with my attempts and pulled the DCOE off my car and lockwired the
> two bolts on each barrel that respectively secure the main and auxillary
> venturi. I have never known them come loose unlike the top cover but just
> wanted to be sure.
>
> I also want to lock wire the jet inspection cover but haven't found anything
> suitable to secure it to. Has anyone found a suitable screw with a drilled
> head (I don't have a pillar drill let alone a drilling jig to do my own) or
> even stainless screws of the correct size for the top cover?
>
> Daniel1312
>
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