----- Original Message -----
From Jim Juhas <james.f.juhas at snet.net>
To: wizardz <wizardz@maxinter.net>
Cc: <spridgets@autox.team.net>; <mgs@autox.team.net>
Sent: 08 March 2000 17:30
Subject: Re: clutch pin length
> Another 2 cents worth:
>
> After facing the same problem last spring when getting my wife's Sprite
> back on the road, and after a lot of thinking about it, I concluded
> that the rod length makes no difference at all unless you are reaching
> the end of the travel of the slave. The slave is only going to relax
> back to where there is no more pressure on it, i.e., where the clutch
> engages. If something has shifted in position, then a longer rod may
> be needed. However, I traced my problems down to insufficient bleeding
> after a master cylinder rebuild, and play in the pivot end of the rod.
> Careful bleeding, a new rod AND pin, and the clutch works fine.
>
> > I am beginning to suspect I have a pin that is too short forcing my
> > slave cyl. to be near the end of its bore just to get the
> > clutch engaged.
Hey! I tried some lateral thinking with a M-cyl and a slave in front of me
on the desk. Could it be a problem of the M-cyl return spring being too
powerful and 'sucking' the fluid back leading to the slave piston being
sucked away from the rod? This would lead to some slack whenever you first
depress the pedal.
Could this be it or am I talking horse s##t again?
Yea or neeeeeeigh?
P.S. My clutch pedal has about 1inch travel between up and 'disengaged'
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