My nickel is that the first priority after salt is avoidance of
condensation. The damage is especially ruthless inside the often
unprotected inner hollow sections. I have seen an E type sag after
10 years in an uncontrolled garage environment with no sign of
exterior rust.
Condensation will occur when warmer moist air comes in contact
with colder metal. So keeping a constant temperature is your best
defense. Up here in North Mexico where heat is very expensive I
try to keep the temperature constant thru the winter at just over
the freezing point 35 to 40 (in Yankee degrees). In the hot hi
humidity climates - ie Houston - dehumidification is a priority
and you do get a bunch of that with air conditioning, but I hear
that cold is very expensive down there, so I would at least run a
dehumidifier. Of course moving your car in and out of temp and
humidity extremes don't help but it's small potatoes compared to
the number of cycles you'll get in an unprotected garage going
thru seasonal fluctuations. Call it dew point fatigue.
Soft materials are happy with anything near room temp. Very cold
makes for brittle and very hot accelerates aging.
Your other storage counter measures, feed and care of paint, vinyl
and leather, etc have an impact.
Mike L.
AN5 10426 etc
----- Original Message -----
From Jose Vicente Vargas <jvvmusme at indexcol.com.co>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: February 29, 2000 8:00 PM
Subject: storage conditions
>
> Does anyone know the ideal conditions for a garage in order to
store a vintage car in terms of temperature and humidity
>
>
> -------------------------------------------
> Mensaje enviado desde www.indexcol.com.co
> EL DIRECTORIO DE EMPRESAS COLOMBIANAS
> EN INTERNET
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