Hi David ,
I have heard of people having the paint adhesion / bubbling failure. The
trick is to neutralize the acid completely. People run into problems when
they do sloppy work. Make up a solution of hot distilled water and backing
soda . Use a sponge and apply it to the warm freshly tinned metal. when the
acid flux and the water solution come in contact with each other they will
bubble furiously. when the reaction is complete , rinse the area thoroughly
with fresh warm distilled water. The surface should look beautiful. If any
area looks discolored go back and work it over with the backing soda / water
solution (and maybe scrub with a new clean wire brush) rinse with more
distilled water. Dry off the water with clean rags . Next degrease the area
with lacquer thinner or acetone. Now you are ready to apply the lead. After
applying the lead, kill any tallow with more acetone. After final shaping of
the lead with body files and or sanding clean again with acetone, metal
prep the surrounding steel. wipe the area with "PrepSol" or similar product.
Use a tack rag , then spray with self etching primer. I know this is a long
winded explanation , but it is really not that hard to do . Using this
method I've had no problem with paint bubbling or peeling. Jaguars , Aston's
and many other fine automobiles have used lead filler for many many decades
with out any problems. Go for it ! The end result is very satisfying. P.S.
Because of the cost and effort of using lead I tend to do better body work
instead of just covering up the mess with a bunch of plastic.
Good Luck,
Mark Hanna
AN5
> -----Original Message-----
> From: DLancer7676@cs.com [SMTP:DLancer7676@cs.com]
> Sent: Friday, February 25, 2000 3:11 PM
> To: mhanna@ball.com; mlupynec@globalserve.net
> Cc: spridgets@autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: lead work
>
> Thanks Mark!!
>
> I was really tempted to try that kit. The old mechanic whom I talk with
> when
> I have problems discourged me from it -- he said there are problems
> getting
> the paint to adhere due to the flux. Also the body shop class was really
> high on Bondo,when applied thinly and with proper surface preparation.
> I
> may try the lead yet--it looks really neat to work with to me.
>
> --David C.
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