My ace body man uses lead on edges and exposed corners where
plastic might chip off. Flat surfaces are metal worked to near
perfection and faired out only where necessary with a very thin
application of bondo. Not cheap but not the most expensive way to
go if the car deserves a 'flawless' finish.
Mike
AN510426
----- Original Message -----
From Charles Christ <cfchrist at earthlink.net>
To: <spridgets@autox.team.net>
Sent: February 24, 2000 4:17 PM
Subject: lead work
> lead is a nice filler but if you do not do it properly, you will
find paint
> bubbling or blistering off of it due to improper cleaning of
surface before
> tinning surface. in order to tin a surface it must be etched
with flux and
> tinning flux has acid in it. if the acid is not "completly "
removed after
> it has been aplied it will leach through the lead and causing
bubbling or
> blistering in the finish. not to mention you will need a
unique set of
> tools specific for lead work: hard wood paddles(to work the lead
while still
> soft), body rasps or files for shaping the lead (after it is
cool, or hard)
> and then you can start some sanding. also remember to use a
good
> respirator to keep from enjoying lead poisoning from the lead
dust you will
> be generating!
>
> lead does have it's place in body repair or restoration. in
high flex
> aereas plastic will crack and fiberglass will shatter or pop
out. lead is
> much more forgiving if properly done.
>
> all of the body fillers for corecting imperfections in surfaces
and covering
> joints in mating panels have their merits. that is part of what
makes doing
> body repair or restoration so dificult. that is why good jobs
with excelent
> finishes are so dificult to do. making the right decision is
not always a
> clear cut one as far as what material will work where untill
you decide how
> long you choose the repair to last. you pay for longevity in
both time and
> materials.
>
> chuck.
> sometimes you win and sometimes you loose and sometimes you just
need to
> head for the fifth of booze!
>
>
>
>
>
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