I don't follow the instructions in the book for this operation. I usually jack
up the car, remove the tire and put a 4" block under the A- arm, then lower the
car and remove the jack. I then remove the tie rod end and and upper shock
bolt. Then I jack up the car from the front SLOWLY (keep family and dogs away
from the side that is loose, cats are open season) until the spring is loose or
the A-arm is as low as it will go. I would recommend you knock the spring out
from the underneath side of the car (if it is a heavy duty spring it may still
have some stored energy that may cause bodily injury should you try to pull it
towards you from the side of the car) I have not had any problems but don't want
to be party to BLOOD on your parka and boots. Once the spring is removed you can
then take the A-arm loose from the car. They are quite heavy with the rotors
still on but at least you took the tire off, eh!? Just my way of doing it,
................ Brad
Robert Duquette wrote:
> Hi guys!
>
> 2 questions:
>
> I have succeeded in removing one coil spring and am following the Hayne's
> manual. They suggest removing the wheel hub and brake disc "before"
> disconnecting the damper and control arm. Is this a necessary order of
> things? I would prefer to take the whole thing off as one assembly and
> bring it into the 'warm' basement.
>
> I have succeeded in removing one coil spring so far. The 4 1/2 inch bolt
> seemed way too long. Is there a method for measuring the strength of these
> things? I am assuming that I will be able to find the appropriate rating in
> one of these books.
>
> ( I have also managed to get grease on my parka and boots. :( )
>
> Robert Duquette
> Ottawa ON Canada
> http://www3.sympatico.ca/robertduquette
> RobertDuquette@Sympatico.ca
> '65 RHD BRG Sprite
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