Andy,
the bearings shoudl be marked on teh back. "std", "010" etc.
Ulix
On Wed, 26 May 1999, Andy Webster wrote:
> Shawn (and others)
> How do I determine which size bearings to get..can I size the journals with
> good vernier/calipers? do I buy the same size as the ones I'm replacing or
> go one up? It seems that this is all my engine really needs as the bores are
> nice, compression is good...just the bearings along the crank and I s'pose a
> new oil pump (I'm getting 60psi when cold) and maybe a new timing chain....
> It runs fine but sounds a little harsh when getting to higher revs. An
> A-series specialist from a morris minor workshop here in Melbourne assured
> me that it was not 'knocking' but the crank that was making the noise. That
> can't be too good over time.
> I intend to drive it a long distance (1200 miles) fairly soon so I dont want
> it seizing half way to queensland.
> Andy
> >From: Shawn Knight <eybdoogy@earthlink.net>
> >To: Andy Webster <trunkie@hotmail.com>
> >Subject: Oil Pressure
> >Date: Wed, 26 May 1999 08:49:27 -0400
> >
> >You can just replace the bearing shells without doing anything to the
> >crank.
> >This is standard procedure for really old cars that have had the cranks
> >machined
> >as much as possible and no replacement cranks are available. You can
> >"micropolish" the crank with some 600 grit sandpaper and a string, I got
> >that
> >trick from an engine blueprinting book I have. Regardless of the condition
> >of
> >your crank, if your bearings are worn, renewing them will result in an
> >improvement in oil pressure.
> >
> >Shawn
> >
> >Andy Webster wrote:
> >
> > > Mike,
> > > If I may enquire, who is the spring maker? After all the reports of
> > > stiffness and poor ride height, I'm not real keen to shell out ~$400 for
> > > unsatisfactory springs.
> > > Also I put mobil 1 in my 1100 yesterday and the difference seems quite
> > > remarkable. The engine seems to spin a lot easier. It's noticable
> >especially
> > > at start up when the engine no longer has that 'struggling' warm-up
> > > period....Just turn it over and off she goes. Pressure at operating temp
> > > seems mildy improved too, though I'm pretty sure my mains and big end
> > > bearings are fairly worn..I would like to replace them..is there a way
> >of
> > > doing this without getting the crank ground etc. I have a spare 1100
> >crank
> > > that has no cracks, but the engine it's from was going to require 'line
> > > boring'. I dont really know what this means but my point is.. could I
> >get
> > > bearings to fit this crank then install it in the engine thus minimizing
> > > 'down time'?
> > > Andy
> > >
> >
>
>
Ulix __/__,__ ___/__|__
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'67 Sprite '74 X1/9
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