My car has these symptoms, and I have put it down to warn synchros, or warn
needel bearings. Currently I think its the bearings. But the fork is worth
thinking about, and would explain why I dont get a cruntch on 2nd to 1st.
Contery to the belief of the prevous replys there is absolutly know way of
adjusting the clutch. Moving the slave forwards or back make no difference
what so ever. I have just done a lot of experimenting to get the maximum
throw out of my clutch. The clutch is auto adjusting, moving the slave
backward will give you a poor through first time, but as soon as you release
the piston in the slave does not go back all the way, but goes back to the
same level as it was when it was forward, this is because its position is
controled by the spring in the clutch. It was designed as an auto adjusting
clutch.
However there is a lot that can be done. Here is a list of things its worth
doing on the clutch. Its worth repeaing most of these on the brakes.
Air in the system can be tested by pumping the pedal quickly if there is air
the pedal will start soft then firm as the air is compressed, but does not
have time to decompress before being compressed agin.
Check for thrust bearings in the engin allowing crank to float back and
forwards.
Check the bleed nipple is in the top hole and the pipe in the bottom.
Bleed the clutch, replace the old fluid.
Overhaul the slave and MC for a start.
Replace the cotter pins in the linkage.
Weld washers onto any holes which have warn ovel, and fit sutable cotter
pins.
The master cylinder is not auto adjusting so there is often slack between
the pedal resting position and when the pishrod starts to touch the piston.
The pushrod on the MC may be the wrong length, they wear by a couple of mm
mm and get that raised blob in the middel which you see on warn engine
pushrods.
Check you have a good clutch pivot and you have the special springy thing.
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