shop-talk
[Top] [All Lists]

Re: workshop floor

To: <shop-talk@Autox.Team.Net>
Subject: Re: workshop floor
From: "Karl Vacek" <KVacek@Ameritech.net>
Date: Wed, 26 Jan 2005 18:03:05 -0600
Use treated plywood if you must do this.  Personally I'd lay a vapor barrier
then lay treated sleepers down flat 2' x 2' OC and fill between them with
stone to support the plywood.  Seam the plywood over the sleepers and screw
it all together with SS of galvanized deck screws.

But seriously look at the costs -- wood is expensive and there are
alternatives.

I'm going through the same thing trying to put a floor into my 950 square
foot hangar, built on airport property and thus subject to potentially
having to be moved some day.  Most of the guys have either opted to live
with crushed stone screenings or have begged, borrowed, or paid big $$ for
modular plastic floors.  And everybody has a vapor barrier - it rains in the
hangar if you don't.  That's in Chicago, a far drier place than Florida.

There are quite a few brands of tough plastic tiles starting at under $2.70
PSF full retail - I bet you can shop around and do better on a quantity.

But after all is said and done, concrete might run far less than that -
particularly if you don't need a heavy floor loading and don't have frost
like we do.

Karl




>
> > Could
> > I get away with after the building is erected, put down several inches
of
> > gravel (with landscape fabric underneath it to try and keep the
> > gravel from
> > imbedding in the dirt and then using pressure treated 2x4's for
> > floor joists
> > and 3/4 inch pt plywood for the floor?  would this last 20 years or so?
>
> Sounds reasonable to me, Tom.  Use exterior grade plywood and try to have
> the gravel platform slightly above the surrounding soil.  I'd probably try
> to put down a vapor barrier under the joists (not sure if that's better),
> but ventilation is a must.






<Prev in Thread] Current Thread [Next in Thread>