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Re: [oletrucks] Alternator Wiring & Gibbon

To: oletrucks@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [oletrucks] Alternator Wiring & Gibbon
From: Bruce Kettunen <bekett@uslink.net>
Date: Tue, 8 Jan 2002 15:01:55 -0600
Assume you have an early internal regulator alternator based on terminals 
(top, not back) and year ('74)

This is called the two wire alternator.  R or 1 hooks up to a keyed 
ignition source.  F or 2 hooks up to the BAT terminal on the back 
of the alternator.  BAT hooks up to the battery + terminal,through 
the ammeter if you have one.  

Hope this helps.  On my truck, it doesn't charge right away until 
there are some RPM's put on, the harmonic balancer is too small diameter.
Works fine otherwise.

Bruce Kettunen
57 3200
MN


At Tuesday, 8 January 2002, you wrote:

>Joe & Thomas,
>
>Thanks for the information.  Naturally, my alternator has both 1 
and 2, AND
>R and F.  Does this mean that it is internal or external regulator?
>
>I will be using the stock  '58 gages, so I am assuming that the 
Amp meter is
>actually an Amp meter.  You have indicated where #1 wire goes, what 
about #2
>wire?  Thomas' email appears to indicated that it should go to the 
battery
>or the battery terminal on the starter.  The local wrecker's suggestion 
was
>just to hook the two together?
>
>Thanks
>
>Randy
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "joe" <chevy1@jps.net>
>To: "Randall J. Krebs" <lawgod@offshore-tax.com>
>Sent: Monday, January 07, 2002 2:40 PM
>Subject: Re: [oletrucks] Alternator Wiring & Gibbon
>
>> O.K Randall if the 2 wire is on the top side of the alternator 
labeled #1
>> and #2 it's an internal regulator alternator.  If you have labels 
R and F
>> next to the terminals then it's an external regulator alternator.
>>
>> The wire can be ran a number of ways.  I have a voltmeter in my 
truck so I
>> just ran the 10 ga. battery wire on the back of the alternator 
right back
>to
>> the battery.  If you have the amp meter on the gauge panel and 
want it to
>> register then you'll have to take the Bat wire from the back of the
>> alternator and run it into one terminal on the amp gauge and then 
out the
>> other terminal and down to the key switch.  The key switch has 
a main Bat
>> terminal that comes up from the battery so the current will make 
it's way
>to
>> the battery to recharge it.  I always wire in a fusible link on 
the 10 ga.
>> wire just close to the alternator in case their is a short.  You can
>> purchase fusible links at the local parts store and get it two 
wire sizes
>> smaller than the wire your trying to protect.  I then ran a wire 
from the
>> key switch ignition terminal to the #1 terminal on the alternator.
This
>> wire energizes the alternator and causes it to start charging.
Some guy's
>> just run a short jumper wire from the bat terminal on the alternator 
to
>the
>> #1 terminal for the same purpose.  I had a problem with the engine 
wanting
>> to keep running because the alternator was feeding current and 
wouldn't
>shut
>> off so the way I wire the #1 terminal eliminated the dieseling 
effect.
>>
>> What I would actually suggest is that you head on over to a Boat 
shop and
>> purchase a Self Energizing Voltage Regulator and you won't need 
the other
>> wire to the #1 terminal.  You only have to run the Bat wire.  
You just
>> replace the voltage regulator with the Self Energizing regulator 
and then
>> take a short piece of wire to jump current from the battery terminal 
on
>the
>> alternator up to the #1 terminal to activate it  and your done!
>>
>> Joe
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: Randall J. Krebs <lawgod@offshore-tax.com>
>> To: joe <chevy1@jps.net>
>> Date: Monday, January 07, 2002 11:15 AM
>> Subject: Re: [oletrucks] Alternator Wiring & Gibbon
>>
>>
>> >The Alternator has one connector at the top (side) with three wires
>coming
>> >out of it one larger than the other 2.
>> >
>> >Randy
>> >----- Original Message -----
>> >From: "joe" <chevy1@jps.net>
>> >To: "Randall J. Krebs" <lawgod@offshore-tax.com>;
>> <oletrucks@autox.team.net>
>> >Sent: Monday, January 07, 2002 1:46 PM
>> >Subject: Re: [oletrucks] Alternator Wiring & Gibbon
>> >
>> >
>> >> Actually all the GM Alternators have 3 wires coming off of 
them.  It's
>> the
>> >> location of the 2 wire connector that determines the internal and
>> external
>> >> regulator alternators.  If the two wire plastic connector is 
on the
>back
>> >of
>> >> the alternator then it's an external regulator alternator. 
If the 2
>wire
>> >> plastic connector ( #1 & #2) are on the side of the case it's an
>internal
>> >> regulator alternator.  What type do you have?
>> >>
>> >> Joe
>> >> -----Original Message-----
>> >> From: Randall J. Krebs <lawgod@offshore-tax.com>
>> >> To: oletrucks@autox.team.net <oletrucks@autox.team.net>
>> >> Date: Monday, January 07, 2002 8:17 AM
>> >> Subject: [oletrucks] Alternator Wiring & Gibbon
>> >>
>> >>
>> >> >I have a GM Alternator ('74 Impala 350).  It has 3 wires coming 
off it
>> >> (have
>> >> >been told this means an internal voltage regulator).    Which 
wire
>goes
>> >> >where.
>> >> >
>> >> >Thanks
>> >> >
>> >> >Gibbon website is www.gibbonfiberglass.com  I used their front 
cross
>> >member
>> >> >kit if anyone wants to email me for my comments. (from the 
question
>> above
>> >> >it's obvious that it was simple to install and obviously isn't 
on the
>> >road
>> >> >yet)
>> >> >
>> >> >Gibbon also has fibreglass kits to convert a stepside into 
a Cameo
>> >> >
>> >> >Randall J. Krebs
>> >> >oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 
1941 and
>1959
>oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
>




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