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Re: [oletrucks] Truck Wiring

To: Mike Auser <auserm@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: [oletrucks] Truck Wiring
From: jelerath@us.ibm.com
Date: Thu, 8 Jul 1999 11:59:04 -0600

I rewired my '53 from scratch rather than a kit because no matter what kit I
saw, I still needed to change it.  I have a power seat, extra guages (volt and
ammeter), a real fuse panel, the stock steering wheel with add-on turn signals,
two tail/brake lights on each side in the rear, back-up lights and 4-way
flashers, a 2-wire alternator and HEI ignition (no ballast resistor or ballast
by-pass to the starter).  No kit had this configuration.

I bought a fuse panel ($110) from ???, (I can look at my receipt at home if
anyone is interested) that includes separate circuits for a std. old GM ignition
(on, start, accessory) and relays for horn and flasher); ignition key from NAPA,
got a "new" headlight switch from pick-n-pull.  I made sure I had all GM's
standard plastic connector housings (used from pick-n-pull in San Jose) to go of
the alternator, light switch, distributor, regulator, and bought stock GM
replacement spades and lots of color coded wire and connectors from NAPA.  I got
my tail lights, front running/turnsignal lights (on top of the fenders) and
backup lights from a local truck supply store.

I designed my own color coded wiring diagram based on Tex's ???? (a book I
bought), as well as the Chilton's manual for a '70's Camaro.  I drew the diagram
showing firewall, cab, etc., including the penetrations through the wall, wire
guage, color code, pin-outs, etc. using Microsoft's EXCEL.  As I started to wire
things and found errors I just changed the diagram .

I added back-up lights by using a stock brake light switch ($8 from the truck
parts store) attached to the transmission support (I have a small block with a
Saginaw 4sp with Hurst shifter). I bent the arm of the normally closed switch so
it contacts the shift linkage and is open when the reverse linkage is in the
neutral position.  In reverse it allows the switch to close and turn on the
lights.

If anyone wants copies of my wiring diagrams, I'd be happy to e-mail them to you
personal address.  You need EXCEL to view them.  (I suppose I could make them in
PDF, but I don't have the s/w to create pdf files).

I assembled it during the winter using the "1 wire a night is better than
nothing" philosophy.

Jon Elerath
jelerath@us.ibm.com



Mike Auser <auserm@hotmail.com> on 07/08/99 08:40:12 AM

Please respond to Mike Auser <auserm@hotmail.com>

To:   oletrucks@autox.team.net
cc:
Subject:  [oletrucks] Truck Wiring





The next project on my '48 Chevy 1/2 ton is to rewire it.  I'm going to do
it from scratch rather than buying a harness and am wondering how to best
protect the wires running along the frame.  Most harnesses seem to be
wrapped tightly in electrician's tape, but that seems tedious.  I was
considering using rock guard tubing (ribbed plastic tubing that has a slit
for inserting the wires),  but fear that it may trap water.  A fellow list
member suggested using heat shrink tubing.  Suggestions?  I will be using
modern wires (rather than cloth) and am wondering what I should use for
color coding.  Is their a resource on the web that would detail this?


Thanks,

Mike Auser
'48 Chevy 1/2 ton
'52 Chevy 1/2 ton


oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959



oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959

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