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FW: Monster Lug Nuts (Part Deux)

To: "'morgans@autox.team.net'" <morgans@autox.team.net>
Subject: FW: Monster Lug Nuts (Part Deux)
From: "Blair, John" <JBlair@scn.spawar.navy.mil>
Date: Fri, 16 Apr 1999 07:40:20 -0400
John T. Blair
jblair@scn.spawar.navy.mil
SPAWARSYSCEN Chesapeake
Chesapeake, Va                                 (757) 523-8133

Jeff Webster wrote:

>... the PO or someone, had over tightened the lug nuts on that wheel - with
the 
>result that two lug bolts had stripped threads in the hub, one sheared off
and the 
>last one came off OK.
>The other thing is, that the studs aren't welded in but rather, simply
screwed in 
>and center punched from the back in such a way to splay the stud so it can
be 
>unscrewed.

Jeff,  I really can't address your situation on the Morgan from 100% fact as
I
Have wire wheels and they are set up a little different.  However, on most
of 
My cars, the wheel  studs are usually simply a "Press" fit.  They shank,
about
The thickness of the axle/hub is serrated.  It has lots of grooves that go
along
the axis of the bolt.  You usually just drive or press them in an out.  The
grooves
cut into the hub and keep the studs from turning.

>Now I am staring the rear Brakes on my 58 + 4. I find one siezed adjuster,
(now 
>free, after some persuasion with a torch) and a non returning brake
mechanism.

Jeff, have you checked out my article on rebuilding brakes on my Morgan Web
page: 

http://www.team.net:80/www/morgan/tech/art010_1.html
<http://www.team.net:80/www/morgan/tech/art010_1.html> 

Which type brake system do you have - the Girling ML3?

Fred has some comments on this in his book also.  Basically a little
antiseeze compound on the little tabs on the backing plate that hold the
shoes out.  Be sure that the brake shoes centered, and ended up on the
little tabs and not caught behind one.  This will keep them from returning.
Also a some antiseeze on the threads of the adjuster, and in the bore where
the cones go.

>This hub puller that is used to remove the rear hubs on my '58 +4, What
does it 
>look like?   Three prong, four prong ? Is it something my local rental
store might 
>have?  Bear in mind that the hub that I have to get off - only has one stud
left in it!

Jeff, the hub puller I have is a Craftsman one I purchased when I was a teen
over
30 yrs ago.  It has a large bolt, then a heavy metal disk that screws onto
the bolt.
There are 3 feet that slide onto the disk.  The bottom of the feet look like
an "L" 
With a hole in the bottom for the studs.  To use it, you set the bolt
against the
Center of the End of the axle.  Then screw the bolt to take up the slack.
Once
Everything is tight, you hit the end of the bolt with a BFH - a 5# hammer.
If the
Hub doesn't pop, tighten down on the bolt and try again.

CAUTION - when using any type of puller like the, be sure that you put the
nut
On the end of the stud that the puller is going to press again.  If not, you
CAN
Split the stud - in the case of an axle that can be very expensive!!!

Also, I've had good luck using a heavy duty impact wrench instead of the 5#
Hammer.

John




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