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Re: [Mgs] Overdrive does not work when it is hot. Checking for an

To: Richard Ewald <richard.ewald@gmail.com>
Subject: Re: [Mgs] Overdrive does not work when it is hot. Checking for an
From: Murray Arundell <arundell@ghs.com.au>
Date: Wed, 8 Sep 2010 06:37:15 +1000
Quick, get this cat another bowl of milk.......

On 07/09/2010, at 11:48 PM, Richard Ewald wrote:

> Your reply shows that you have no idea what you talking about.
> Voltage drop tests are way faster and easier than using an ammeter.
> But what the hell do I know, I only taught this shit for 15 years for
> a major car maker and have been repairing cars professionally for over
> 40 years.
> ::: Shrug:::
>
>
> On Tue, Sep 7, 2010 at 5:21 AM, Paul Hunt <paul.hunt1@blueyonder.co.uk>
> wrote:
>> Only the voltage *past* the bad connection will go down.
> NO shit Sherlock.
>
> If it is inside > the solenoid -  either windings or earth connection
> - you won't see that,
>> and needs to be at the gearbox switch in order to 'see' anything else
which
>> is a pain to get to.
> first off there had better be a voltage drop inside the solenoid or
> you have an open circuit.  The load (solenoid) uses up the voltage.
> Secondly, it takes about 2 seconds to voltage drop the ground
> connection to the solenoid, so that objection is BS
>
>>
>> In no way is this easier than using an ammeter inserted at the manual
> switch
>> for dash switch cars, or the main harness to gearbox harness connector by
>> the fusebox for other cars.
>
> Wait, let me get this straight.  Touching a voltmeter to two ends of
> the circuit is harder than breaking into the harness and wiring in an
> ammeter?  What color is the sky on your planet anyway?
>>
>> You *could* use a voltmeter if you inserted an additional resistance
>> somewhere convenient (like where you would insert an ammeter above ...)
and
>> connected the voltmeter on the solenoid side of that.  If you use a low
>> enough resistance say 10 ohms the solenoid *should* still operate the OD,
>> and with the rest of the circuitry operating as it should you should see
>> about 8v on the meter.  If the disconnection or bad connection is towards
>> the supply from your voltmeter connection point i.e. through the manual
>> switch then the voltage will drop lower (to zero if a full disconnection).
>> If it is towards the solenoid and its earth the voltage will go higher, to
>> full system voltage for a disconnection.  But you need to take into
account
>> normal system voltage variations which could be from 12v to 14.5v.  But a
>> lot of fiddling about getting a appropriate resistance and working out the
>> theoretical currents and voltages.
>
> You are not describing a voltage drop test but rather some type of
> strange available voltage test.  Voltage drop test do not need to take
> into account source voltage, as you are only measuring the drop in a
> particular circuit, not overall system voltage.  What you are
> suggesting is NOT what I suggested.  Perhaps you should learn what the
> hell you are talking about before you go criticizing others.  Maybe if
> you had read the article I wrote you might have a clue.  But then
> again you might not.
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Murray G. Arundell
Managing Director
GHS Pty Ltd
Glaziers Hardware Supplies
Brisbane, Australia
Phone:  +617 3277 1255
Fax:      +617 3875 1256
Email:   arundell@ghs.com.au
_______________________________________________

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