Only the voltage *past* the bad connection will go down. If it is inside
the solenoid - either windings or earth connection - you won't see that,
and needs to be at the gearbox switch in order to 'see' anything else which
is a pain to get to.
In no way is this easier than using an ammeter inserted at the manual switch
for dash switch cars, or the main harness to gearbox harness connector by
the fusebox for other cars.
You *could* use a voltmeter if you inserted an additional resistance
somewhere convenient (like where you would insert an ammeter above ...) and
connected the voltmeter on the solenoid side of that. If you use a low
enough resistance say 10 ohms the solenoid *should* still operate the OD,
and with the rest of the circuitry operating as it should you should see
about 8v on the meter. If the disconnection or bad connection is towards
the supply from your voltmeter connection point i.e. through the manual
switch then the voltage will drop lower (to zero if a full disconnection).
If it is towards the solenoid and its earth the voltage will go higher, to
full system voltage for a disconnection. But you need to take into account
normal system voltage variations which could be from 12v to 14.5v. But a
lot of fiddling about getting a appropriate resistance and working out the
theoretical currents and voltages.
PaulH.
----- Original Message -----
If you don't have an ammeter don't sweat it. If the resistance has gone up
due to whatever both the amperage and voltage will go down as a result. You
can do a test called a voltage drop test to determine if a fault exists and
where exactly the fault lies. Much easier than using an ammeter.
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