You are correct that the gearbox shaft is not going fully into the clutch
driven plate and the pilot bearing. This is because there is an angle between
the two when they should be in line. But to get them in line I either need to
raise the front of the gearbox, or lower the front of the engine. However the
gearbox is hard up against the tunnel, and the crank pulley is resting on the
rack. Result? Impasse. I don't have the exact figures to hand as I have
been communicating by Messenger with the person doing the install and didn't
keep the message, but there is a gap of about 1" between the top of the
bell-housing and the engine backplate, whereas at the bottom it is about 1
1/2". To engage you need the same gap all the way round of course. The
splines are just starting to engage, the installer is pretty sure that as they
were rolling the car back and fore (it is on its wheels) with 4th gear engaged
the crank pulley was rotating. But obviously until the shaft and driven plate
are at the same angle it won't go any further.
So we are going to try and lessen the 'out of line-ness' (hopefully to zero)
by dropping the crossmember and/or moving it back.
Thanks,
PaulH.
----- Original Message -----
From: Richard Ewald
To: Paul Hunt
Cc: John DiFede ; mgs@autox.team.net
Sent: Saturday, December 20, 2008 4:00 PM
Subject: Re: [Mgs] engine reinstall
Over the years I have done this job a bunch of times on both my own and
customer's cars. All I can think of is if the input shaft of the trans in not
in the hole in the clutch plate the engine will stick too far forward.
How big a gap are we talking about here between the engine and trans? 1/2"
or 3"?
On Sat, Dec 20, 2008 at 6:54 AM, Paul Hunt <paul.hunt1@blueyonder.co.uk>
wrote:
Hi John - thanks for the offer but we are going to try dropping/moving
back
the rear cross-member first. I did think about the pulley, but apart from
the
problems of undoing the nut with the engine out I doubt we could refit it
with
the engine in, without pulling the rack forwards! If I had to do that
I'd
rather do it first and leave the pulley alone.
Cheers,
PaulH.
----- Original Message -----
I encountered this problem years ago. As I recall, there were at least
two
different size diameter crank pulleys. I was installing a later engine
into
my chrome bumper 1973 and encountered the same problem. I had to change
to
the smaller diameter pulley to clear the steering rack. I hope this
helps
you.
I may still have both sizes of crank pulleys. If you need dimensions I
can
take a look through my parts bin.
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