This is why I have always installed the engine and gearbox together --
mating them in situ is too fiddly, with no room to maneuver. Together, the
pulley is able to clear the rack (barely) since the gearbox is not
constrained by the crossmember -- you can push the whole assembly further
back, with more tilt.
I think you will need to drop the crossmember in order to tilt the gearbox
adequately. Of course, then you will have to deal with the resulting
instability.
--
Max Heim
'66 MGB GHN3L76149
If you're near Mountain View, CA,
it's the primer red one with chrome wires
on 12/19/08 8:52 AM, Paul Hunt at paul.hunt1@blueyonder.co.uk wrote:
> Anyone had problems with the crank pulley fouling the rack? The gearbox is
> jacked up as far as it will go, but the front of the engine won't go down far
> enough to get the gearbox shaft fully in. The gap between the top of the
> bell-housing the engine backplate is smaller than the gap at the bottom, i.e
> the front of the engine needs to go down, or the gearbox to go up, but neither
> will move any further. This is a chrome bumper, and a car where someone else
> removed the engine.
>
> I've done a late rubber bumper, where I had the rack out anyway to get at the
> engine mount nuts, so no problem with that. It's as if the rack needs to be
> pulled forward, or the back of the gearbox tilted down i.e. slacken the rear
> crossmember bolts, but none of the three sets of instructions I have say
> anything about either of those.
>
> Thanks,
> PaulH.
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