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Re: Delurk and Rot Repair Question

To: "Michael P. Ohleger" <movlas2@gte.net>
Subject: Re: Delurk and Rot Repair Question
From: Matt Pringle <pringlmm@mcmaster.ca>
Date: Sun, 14 Nov 1999 14:09:32 -0500
Not that I've done this job yet but...

I was watching an episode of "Trucks" on TNN a few weeks ago and they
were replacing the sills and floors on a Willys.  They tacked welded a
couple of square tubes accross the door openings just above the sills
and near the top of the door.  They also taked a couple in an x pattern
accross the inside of the cockpit.  It seemed to make a whole lot of
sense to do this to maintain the original alignment of the body.

Comments?

Michael P. Ohleger wrote:
> 
> Bill,
> 
> There are many schools of thought here.  One problem that you face is that you
> ARE dealing with the structural integrity of the car when you replace the
> sills.  I have experience where one side of the car was nearly 2 inches longer
> than the other due to a DPO bodge job, but that's another story.  You are far
> wiser to replace the sills and repair cross member first, then tackle the 
>floors
> last.  The importance is that the car will be "true" before you insert the
> floors, which makes for a much easier installation.  The cross member should 
>be
> probed carefully, what looks like surface rust can go all the way through.
> Frankly, when it comes to structural welding, I'd leave that to a professional
> shop.  That way you should get a guarentee and can rest assured that the
> integrity of the car (and the weld) isn't compromised.  As far as the doors 
>are
> concerned, if you are DIY, leave'em on.  Alignment of the body is easier.
> You'll note that the Haynes book shows all of this work being done in a
> professional shop, that's why the doors are off, since they have the skills 
>and
> the tools to accomplish the tasks at hand.  Just my 2 cents worth.
> 
> Michael Ohleger
> 67 MGB
> 70 MGB
> 61 MGA
> 
> Scotsman wrote:
> 
> > I have just purchased my first LBC!  It is a '68 B Roadster, British Racing
> > Green.
> >
> > The car has the typical rot in the sills, floorboards and around the exhaust
> > notch on the crossmember.
> >
> > My questions:
> >
> > I just got Lindsay Porter's restoration manual (renamed Haynes Restoration
> > Manual).  In the book, they replace the sills with the old floorboards in
> > place.  Is this necessary to maintain the "structural integrity" of the car?
> > It would seem much easier to work on the sills if the floorboards were
> > removed first.  Also, it has been suggested that the door be left on the
> > car, to make aligning the parts easier.  Does this make sense?  In Porter's
> > book, they have the door removed.
> >
> > As I mentioned, the crossmember is rotted around the exhaust pipe notch on
> > the crossmember.  The rot "seems" to be localized there.  The rest of the
> > crossmember seems to have bad surface rust, but not rotted thru.  Should the
> > entire crossmember be replaced, or would this problem be a candidate for a
> > patch?  If the crossmember needs to be replaced, is this a job that should
> > be done by a body shop? If not, would I be best off replacing the
> > crossmember before or after I do the sills?
> >
> > I have only been a member of this fine list for about 2 weeks and I do
> > apologized for repeating a question that I am sure has been quite thoroughly
> > discussed prior to my joining the list. (I can't seem to find a digest of
> > past postings).
> >
> > Thank you,
> > Bill Lawson
> > Long Island, NY
> >
> > P.S.  If there are any list members in my area that have undertaken this job
> > in the past please email me.  Any support would be appreciated.  Especially
> > since my wife now really thinks I have gone over the deep end!

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