John,
Sounds as though you are already using the aluminum oxide! Works very well
on iron and steel, and I quite agree that plastic media is best for carbs
and other aluminum, copper, brass, etc. that is soft.
If you have not already tried it, get yourself a large "brass" cleaner
(vibratory) at a local gun show, fill it walnut hull media, and let it run
overnight with the small stuff inside. This works well on plastic,
Bakelite, glass bits, etc. I bought a super-large one for very little a
couple of years ago and it has given a very good account of itself.
Back to the paint for chassis, etc., here's is a good idea when using POR 15
in hard to reach recessed areas such as the side curtain wells:
Use the throw away rubber gloves and combine them with saran wrap around
your arms or arm. Over-lap the saran wrap over the tops of the gloves.
When finished, peel off the saran wrap, gloves and poof! No black patches
on your arms!
No hard-to-remove-before-dinner-at-the-club spots in unfortunate areas! Stop
laughing! It works!
Remember: The only way to remove hardened POR 15 from human skin is to lose
the skin......!
On to subject three. I found a 30's copy of a DIY type auto magazine that
suggested replacing steel tailpipes with copper so as to save money (no
corrosion)!! The article even gave directions on how to bend the tubing
without kinking it! Packing sand into the pipe!
And all this time we thought stainless was the only non-rotting way to go!
Early technology strikes again.
Best,
Ray
"Nothing leaves a mark like whacking into the ground!"
----- Original Message -----
From: <Jorolibb@aol.com>
To: <Spook01@comcast.net>; <Kellmg@aol.com>; <mg-mmm@autox.team.net>;
<mg-tabc@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Sunday, April 04, 2004 9:16 PM
Subject: Re: [mg-tabc] Re: Chassis Paint?
> Ray,
>
> You are right that aluminum oxide will work much faster than "beads",
however
> I use "beads" as a generic term and sometimes use other media in my
cabinet.
> I forget what it is called but I buy it from Tipp and it's black in color,
> does a good job and isn't to costly as it will eventually end up in the
dust
> collector. I do use a plastic media on carburetor castings and this cleans
them up
> without giving the parts a satin or blasted appearance. But mostly I keep
the
> glass beads in my cabinet because it works on almost all materials without
> doing any damage to the parts but mostly because I don't want to be
changing
> media all the time. Laziness I guess. I've run almost every part for my J2
thru
> my cabinet except the chassis which won't fit and I'm doing the same with
the
> TC. In fact I'll be taking the body tub irons to a local sand blasting
company
> soon as these are also to big for my cabinet. The TC chassis has already
been
> sand blasted and primed.
>
> Best regards,
>
> John Libbert
> Milford, OH
> J2 3118
> TC 2138
>
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