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Fw: Dry Decks

To: <land-speed@autox.team.net>
Subject: Fw: Dry Decks
From: "Richard Fox" <v4gr@rcn.com>
Date: Sun, 18 Mar 2001 12:09:00 -0800
-----Original Message-----
From: Richard Fox <v4gr@rcn.com>
To: Bill & Dee Bennett <benettw@earthlink.net>; Land Speed List
<land-speed@autox.team.net>
Date: Sunday, March 18, 2001 12:07 PM
Subject: Re: Dry Decks


>This is the system I used on Larry's Pontiac and my Plymouth with the Ford
>head. However I start with water to the head which is hotter and I want
>cooler. I use solid copper head gaskets with no water holes (.041) that I
>make. Oil from the valve cover runs back as stock. Has worked for some time
>for me.  Rich Fox
>-----Original Message-----
>From: Bill & Dee Bennett <benettw@earthlink.net>
>To: Land Speed List <land-speed@autox.team.net>
>Date: Sunday, March 18, 2001 11:08 AM
>Subject: Dry Decks
>
>
>>With the head gasket discussion on going, I thought I would throw this
>>question out there. Seems to me the metal "O" rings are a neat deal. Now
to
>>solve another small delima. Why not make it a complete dry deck and use
>>seperate cooling loops in the heads and block. I know the some of the 18
>>degree heads have a coolant line run to the intake face. This would also
>>mandate the use of a dry sump sytem to remove the oil used to cool the
>valve
>>springs. Would the temperatures be hard to control even if using a common
>>water pump, and cooling tank or radiator. Might be able to lower the block
>>temp to control some bore distortion and a littel higher head temp to gain
>>so extra go power. I guess this is nothing new just something the average
>>guy never really tries. I am thinking right or is my deck dry above the
>>shoulders?
>>
>>Bill

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