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<html><head><meta http-equiv=3D"content-type" content=3D"text/html; charset=3D=
utf-8"></head><body dir=3D"auto">Bob,<div> Is your OD issue a time or t=
emp issue? You said it started working once the car warmed up after a f=
ew miles. If you pull over once the OD starts working, leave the car in 4th (=
clutch in of course) and select and deselect the OD a few times, that shoul=
d release any built up pressure. If the OD works when you drive off then it a=
ppears to be temp related, if it doesn=E2=80=99t work for a number of miles t=
hen it appears the pump is taking time to build pressure in the accumulator.=
Worn pump or blocked filter maybe?</div><div>Regards</div><div>Piet<br id=3D=
"lineBreakAtBeginningOfSignature"><div dir=3D"ltr">Sent from my iPad</div><d=
iv dir=3D"ltr"><br><blockquote type=3D"cite">On 27 Oct 2025, at 2:59=E2=80=AF=
pm, Bob Spidell via Healeys <healeys@autox.team.net> wrote:<br><br></b=
lockquote></div><blockquote type=3D"cite"><div dir=3D"ltr">=EF=BB=BF
=20
<meta http-equiv=3D"Content-Type" content=3D"text/html; charset=3DUTF-8"=
>
=20
=20
When I first started using MT-90 in my BJ8 I changed out the fluid
at 15K miles (Norman Nock's recommended interval). I drained into a
perfectly clean pan, took the fluid out into the bright sunlight and
observed it had what I called 'shake;' shiny brass particles
floating in the amber fluid. It was quite pretty, like a super fine
metal flake paint, but the brass particles were so fine you could
rub the oil between your fingers and not feel a thing. In short,
they were too small to plug any of the passages in an O/D. Anyone
who's rebuilt a Healey/Mowog gearbox knows the brass shift forks are
a consumable item (and easily restored). Note quality greases are
merely oil thickened with a very finely ground, soft metal; e.g.
lithium, molybdenum ('moly'). The cheap stuff usually uses
diatomaceous earth. <br>
<br>
The only (supposed) reason I've ever heard for using non-detergent
oil in a gearbox is to let the brass, and other contaminants settle
into a sludge at the bottom of the gearbox, so it doesn't circulate
through the O/D and possibly plug one of the small passages (anybody
heard a different 'logic?). But, the job of a detergent is to clean
contaminants--soot, etc.--from the combustion chambers and, in
particular, ring lands. It's the job of ashless dispersants to keep
particulates suspended in the oil, so as NOT to contribute to sludge
buildup, so spec'ing an AD oil<i> might</i> make some sense (but
what happens when a chunk of sludge starts migrating around the
gearbox; blood clot anybody?). Note I read somewhere, but can't
provide a source, that ZDDP was first added to oil as a detergent,
before its anti-wear properties were known (rule of thumb: if
something has 'phosphate' in its chemical name it likely has
detergent properties). <br>
<br>
Some differences are pointed out here:<br>
<br>
<a class=3D"moz-txt-link-freetext" href=3D"https://www.cnlubricantadditive.c=
om/info/difference-between-dispersants-and-dertergents-91273973.html">https:=
//www.cnlubricantadditive.com/info/difference-between-dispersants-and-derter=
gents-91273973.html</a><br>
<br>
Our mechanics always insisted we use AD/mineral oil for engine
break-in in our aircraft engines--no mention of
'non-detergent'--because air-cooled aircraft engine cylinders are
notoriously tricky to break-in properly due to the loose clearances
and (sometimes) chrome cylinder coatings. AD oil was thought to help
'wear in' the rings (when the break-in failed I've heard of owners
putting Bon Ami in the cylinders). AFAIK, most modern, off-the-shelf
oils contain both dispersants and detergents. <br>
<br>
Their is a cadre of owners and mechanics that seem to think our cars
should only get the oils, etc. that were available when the cars
were first manufactured, ignoring the tremendous advances in
lubricant science ('tribology') in the last 70 years or so. I've
attached the recommended lubricant chart from the Bentley reprint
for the 6-cyl cars, showing how the recommendations 'evolved' as
multi-vis oils became available--early 60s, I think--and no mention
of 'non-detergent.' I don't see any particular advantage to using a
multi-vis in a gearbox; I suspect BMC simply wanted to limit the
types of oil the mechanics had to stock, and engine oil was good
enough (I suppose a mult-vis might shift a little better when cold,
but I ran Castrol 20W-50 for a few years and didn't notice any
benefit; admittedly in a temperate climate). <br>
<br>
When I overhauled my gearbox/OD at 205K miles there was only slight
wear on the leading edge of 2nd gear. The O/D accumulator showed
typical scoring, and I replaced one bearing that probably didn't
need to be replaced, but otherwise all the moving parts were
pristine, the O/D screen had just a few small particles and the cone
clutch had significant material left and I put it back in (they
appear to be of limited supply; DWM relines them). Not a spec of
'sludge' anywhere.<br>
<br>
Redline MTL has equivalent viscosity to 30WT motor oil; MT-90 is
equivalent to 50WT. Yes, synthetic oils may leak a little more, but
I ran my old Lincoln LS with a Jaguar engine on 5W-30 full synthetic
and it didn't leak a drop. Go figure. <br>
<br>
Bob<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
<div class=3D"moz-cite-prefix">On 10/26/2025 5:12 PM, Roger Grace
wrote:<br>
</div>
<blockquote type=3D"cite" cite=3D"mid:CALPtYiN-NuwJ091Mbdt0je51tO+A-KsFk=
NyKkLTsiJV0NtCgvw@mail.gmail.com">
<meta http-equiv=3D"content-type" content=3D"text/html; charset=3DUTF-=
8">
<div dir=3D"ltr">
<div class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"font-size:small">OK have
resisted commenting on this controversial topic for a few
years.</div>
<div class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"font-size:small"><br>
</div>
<div class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"font-size:small">Long story
about OD oil to add to the oil confusion.</div>
<div class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"font-size:small">I have made
up a VS test rig for running a GB plus OD at different speeds.</di=
v>
<div class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"font-size:small">Very useful
for functional and OD oil leak hunting</div>
<div class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"font-size:small">Several
years ago, after a rebuild I filled with Castrol 30WT ND oil -=
no issues OD engaged fine.</div>
<div class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"font-size:small">On same GB
after a few days after running for 2-3 mins from cold, drained
the oil (to fix a leak) and noted very significant foaming
with the classic fish eye bubbles.</div>
<div class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"font-size:small">The GB oil
seemed foamier than the OD</div>
<div class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"font-size:small">Repeated this=
test and same story.</div>
<div class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"font-size:small">Also 2 others=
observed the same foaming, and on one was so bad that OD woul=
d
not engage.</div>
<div class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"font-size:small">We all
changed to MT90.</div>
<div class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"font-size:small"><br>
</div>
<div class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"font-size:small">Out of
curiosity wrote to Castrol about this.</div>
<div class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"font-size:small">See reply
below.</div>
<div class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"font-size:small"><br>
</div>
<div class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"font-size:small">
<p><i><span style=3D"font-family:tahoma,sans-serif">"Thank you
for contacting Castrol North<br>
America.</span></i></p>
<p><i><span style=3D"font-family:tahoma,sans-serif">Castrol does
not recommend our Non-Detergent for manual transmission
applications, and we believe the foaming was likely
caused<br>
by some type of contamination, perhaps water in the<br>
transmission.</span></i></p>
<p><i><span style=3D"font-family:tahoma,sans-serif">Unfortunately
Castrol does not offer a manual transmission<br>
fluid product in Canada or the US.</span></i></p>
<p><i><span style=3D"font-family:tahoma,sans-serif">Castrol
Consumer Relations"</span></i></p>
<p><span style=3D"font-family:tahoma,sans-serif">There certainly
was no moisture in the tranny.</span></p>
<p><span style=3D"font-family:tahoma,sans-serif">Not sure if
foaming is a bad thing ? What is disturbing is that if I
hadn't drained the oil I would have been none the wiser
about the foaming. Maybe this is normal. I suspect that it
disappears after some use and only evident soon after
starting ?</span></p>
<p><span style=3D"font-family:tahoma,sans-serif">To hopefully
reduce pesky weeping leaks now use regular engine oil
20-50 VR1 </span></p>
<p><span style=3D"font-family:tahoma,sans-serif">rg</span></p>
<p><br>
</p>
<br>
</div>
<div class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"font-size:small"><br>
</div>
<div class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"font-size:small"><br>
</div>
</div>
<br>
<div class=3D"gmail_quote gmail_quote_container">
<div dir=3D"ltr" class=3D"gmail_attr">On Sun, Oct 26, 2025 at
3:56=E2=80=AFPM Mike Sinclair via Healeys <<a href=3D"mailto:he=
aleys@autox.team.net" moz-do-not-send=3D"true" class=3D"moz-txt-link-freetex=
t">healeys@autox.team.net</a>>
wrote:<br>
</div>
<blockquote class=3D"gmail_quote" style=3D"margin:0px 0px 0px 0.8ex;=
border-left:1px solid rgb(204,204,204);padding-left:1ex">
<div bgcolor=3D"#ffffff">
<p><font size=3D"2" face=3D"Tahoma">Interesting, the comment on
Redline. I have used it in my ancient Honda and the
gearbox noises went away.</font></p>
<p><font size=3D"2" face=3D"Tahoma">Mike</font></p>
<div>On 10/26/25 5:53 AM, Simon Lachlan via Healeys wrote:<br>
</div>
<blockquote type=3D"cite">
<div>
<p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span>Just to keep the pot
boiling=E2=80=A6=E2=80=A6=E2=80=A6=E2=80=A6=E2=80=A6when=
I was up at OD Spares talking to
Dave Twigger, I asked him which oil to use in my OD.
=E2=80=9C20-50=E2=80=9D, he replied very firmly. Over he=
re, UK, OD
Spares is somewhat regarded in the same light as AH
Spares. Dave=E2=80=99s father-in-law worked for Laycock a=
nd,
when they stopped manufacturing ODs, he bought all
the remaining stock and started up on his own. (Or
something similar=E2=80=A6..Dave did tell me but ages ag=
o).
Anyhow, I=E2=80=99d say that Dave and son are our leadin=
g OD
experts. His workshop is surprisingly small and
slightly scruffy but is stuffed with all the right
spares, test beds and spares. Michael, I recall you
saying the same.</span></p>
<p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span>I have to say that I use 30
or 40 non-detergent, which he says is fine. After
fixing my OD, he put my 30 wt back in perfectly
happily. He was absolutely against Redline and
similar products=E2=80=A6..</span></p>
<p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span>Simon</span></p>
<p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span> </span></p>
<div>
<div style=3D"border-width:1pt medium medium;border-style:=
solid none none;border-color:rgb(225,225,225) currentcolor currentcolor;padd=
ing:3pt 0cm 0cm">
<p class=3D"MsoNormal"><b><span style=3D"font-family:&qu=
ot;Calibri",sans-serif">From:</span></b><span style=3D"font-family:&quo=
t;Calibri",sans-serif"> Healeys <a href=3D"mailto:healeys-bounces@autox=
.team.net" target=3D"_blank" moz-do-not-send=3D"true"><healeys-bounces@au=
tox.team.net></a>
<b>On Behalf Of </b>Michael Salter<br>
<b>Sent:</b> 25 October 2025 18:42<br>
<b>To:</b> <a href=3D"mailto:gradea1@charter.net"; ta=
rget=3D"_blank" moz-do-not-send=3D"true" class=3D"moz-txt-link-freetext">gra=
dea1@charter.net</a>;
Bob Spidell <a href=3D"mailto:bspidell@comcast.net"; t=
arget=3D"_blank" moz-do-not-send=3D"true"><bspidell@comcast.net></a>;
Healey team <a href=3D"mailto:healeys@autox.team.net=
" target=3D"_blank" moz-do-not-send=3D"true"><healeys@autox.team.net><=
/a><br>
<b>Subject:</b> Re: [Healeys] Overdrive
Conundrum</span></p>
</div>
</div>
<p class=3D"MsoNormal"> </p>
<div>
<p class=3D"MsoNormal">Hank, I have never be able to
find any recommendation from Laycock De Normanville
which recommend any particular oil for one of their
overdrive units.</p>
</div>
<div>
<p class=3D"MsoNormal">I wrote <span style=3D"color:black;=
background:white">to the
company (</span>back in the day when one sent
letters through the mail, many decades ago) and
asked what lubricant they recommended and they
replied that the lubricant was specified by the
gearbox manufacturer.</p>
</div>
<div>
<p class=3D"MsoNormal">This 30 weight non-detergent
thing is nothing more than an "old wives tale".</p>
</div>
<div id=3D"m_8180538750141781548ms-outlook-mobile-body-separ=
ator-line">
<div>
<p class=3D"MsoNormal"> </p>
</div>
</div>
<div id=3D"m_8180538750141781548ms-outlook-mobile-signature"=
>
<div>
<p class=3D"MsoNormal">M</p>
</div>
</div>
<div class=3D"MsoNormal" align=3D"center" style=3D"text-alig=
n:center">
<hr size=3D"2" width=3D"98%" align=3D"center"></div>
<div id=3D"m_8180538750141781548divRplyFwdMsg">
<p class=3D"MsoNormal"><b><span style=3D"font-size:11pt;fo=
nt-family:"Calibri",sans-serif;color:black">From:</span></b><span s=
tyle=3D"font-size:11pt;font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif;color:blac=
k">
Hank Leach <<a href=3D"mailto:gradea1@charter.net"; t=
arget=3D"_blank" moz-do-not-send=3D"true" class=3D"moz-txt-link-freetext">gr=
adea1@charter.net</a>><br>
<b>Sent:</b> Saturday, October 25, 2025 12:52:20
PM<br>
<b>To:</b> Michael Salter <<a href=3D"mailto:michae=
l.salter@gmail.com" target=3D"_blank" moz-do-not-send=3D"true" class=3D"moz-=
txt-link-freetext">michael.salter@gmail.com</a>>;
Bob Spidell <<a href=3D"mailto:bspidell@comcast.net=
" target=3D"_blank" moz-do-not-send=3D"true" class=3D"moz-txt-link-freetext"=
>bspidell@comcast.net</a>>;
Healey team <<a href=3D"mailto:healeys@autox.team.n=
et" target=3D"_blank" moz-do-not-send=3D"true" class=3D"moz-txt-link-freetex=
t">healeys@autox.team.net</a>><br>
<b>Subject:</b> RE: Re: [Healeys] Overdrive
Conundrum</span> </p>
<div>
<p class=3D"MsoNormal"> </p>
</div>
</div>
<div>
<div>
<p class=3D"MsoNormal">The required clearance for the
sunwheel is 016-.020" If you swapped out the
bearing there could be a difference from original.
Moss and AH Spares sell the various sized steel
washers depending on the reading you get.
Typically, after many miles, that rear bronze
washer is cracked or worn and should be replaced.</p>
</div>
<div>
<p class=3D"MsoNormal"> </p>
</div>
<div>
<p class=3D"MsoNormal">The factory(when there was one)
recommended to only use <u>30W Non Detergent</u>
oil as others tended to foam and cause pressure
issues. Also to be sure it is properly topped up-
#1-key reason to not work.</p>
</div>
<div>
<p class=3D"MsoNormal"> </p>
</div>
<div>
<p class=3D"MsoNormal">Before you tear it down, why
not just change the oil as recommended and see if
there is a difference-easiest fix at this point.
If not the problem then it needs to come out and
repair. Hank</p>
</div>
<div>
<p class=3D"MsoNormal" style=3D"margin-bottom:12pt"><br>=
-------------------- <br>
<br>
From: "Bob Spidell via Healeys" <<a href=3D"mailto:=
healeys@autox.team.net" target=3D"_blank" moz-do-not-send=3D"true" class=3D"=
moz-txt-link-freetext">healeys@autox.team.net</a>>
<br>
Reply-To: "Bob Spidell" <<a href=3D"mailto:bspidell=
@comcast.net" target=3D"_blank" moz-do-not-send=3D"true" class=3D"moz-txt-li=
nk-freetext">bspidell@comcast.net</a>>
<br>
To: "Michael Salter" <<a href=3D"mailto:michael.sal=
ter@gmail.com" target=3D"_blank" moz-do-not-send=3D"true" class=3D"moz-txt-l=
ink-freetext">michael.salter@gmail.com</a>>,
"Healeys" <<a href=3D"mailto:healeys@autox.team.net=
" target=3D"_blank" moz-do-not-send=3D"true" class=3D"moz-txt-link-freetext"=
>healeys@autox.team.net</a>>
<br>
Sent: October 24, 2025 at 9:38 PM PDT <br>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Overdrive Conundrum <br>
Hi Michael,<br>
<br>
I rebuilt the gearbox and O/D probably about 7-8
years or so ago. I've probably put close to 10K
miles on it since, but not too many since I moved
to the Central Valley. For the last few years it's
been mostly short and day trips every month or two
so, it's been mostly sedentary. A few months ago I
took it out for a spin and noticed the O/D
wouldn't engage at first but would start working
normally after maybe 20 minutes of driving. In
subsequent runs it's more not engaging, until a
few days ago I'd decided I would likely have to
pull the gearbox and O/D, but had to pull it out
to get it off the QuickJack underneath it and, to
my surprise it started to work OK again after
15-20 miles.<br>
<br>
I rebuilt the O/D myself, and I think I did OK
except I may not have gotten the planetary gears
depth exactly right; I didn't have a selection of
thrust washers to try so I just put the existing
one back in. The only thing I changed out was the
thrust ring bearing, which might have been a
different width. The unit did have a very slight
vibration, barely noticeable through the
floorboards but otherwise operated perfectly. Now,
when it works, it seems fine. When I rebuilt the
gearbox the rearmost thrust washer was whacked
(see pic), but of course I replaced it (how that
could happen and why the O/D worked is another
mystery). I couldn't get the GB and O/D to mate up
so I took them to BCS where David Nock got them
together and set the operating shaft lift. Besides
trying a new relay at Tom Monaco's suggestion I
haven't done anything else to it.<br>
<br>
Only thing I can guess is maybe the lever that the
solenoid lifts to turn the valve operating cam
maybe slips sometimes and not others.<br>
<br>
Bob</p>
</div>
<div>
<p class=3D"MsoNormal">On 10/24/2025 8:00 PM, Michael
Salter wrote:</p>
</div>
<blockquote style=3D"margin-top:5pt;margin-bottom:5pt">
<div>
<p class=3D"MsoNormal">That does defy logic Bob.</p>
</div>
<div>
<p class=3D"MsoNormal">Can you give a little
history, has it always been this way or did you
change something? Did the problem develop slowly
or over time?</p>
</div>
<div>
<p class=3D"MsoNormal">Anything else that may be
relevant?</p>
</div>
<div>
<p class=3D"MsoNormal"> </p>
</div>
<div>
<p class=3D"MsoNormal">M</p>
</div>
<div id=3D"m_8180538750141781548x_ms-outlook-mobile-body=
-separator-line">
<div>
<p class=3D"MsoNormal"> </p>
</div>
</div>
<div id=3D"m_8180538750141781548x_ms-outlook-mobile-sign=
ature">
<div>
<p class=3D"MsoNormal"> </p>
</div>
</div>
<div class=3D"MsoNormal" align=3D"center" style=3D"text-=
align:center">
<hr size=3D"2" width=3D"98%" align=3D"center"></div>
<div id=3D"m_8180538750141781548x_divRplyFwdMsg">
<p class=3D"MsoNormal"><strong><span style=3D"font-fam=
ily:"Aptos",sans-serif">From:</span></strong>
Healeys <a href=3D"mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team=
.net" target=3D"_blank" moz-do-not-send=3D"true"><healeys-bounces@autox.t=
eam.net></a>
on behalf of Bob Spidell via Healeys <a href=3D"mail=
to:healeys@autox.team.net" target=3D"_blank" moz-do-not-send=3D"true"><he=
aleys@autox.team.net></a><br>
<strong><span style=3D"font-family:"Aptos"=
,sans-serif">Sent:</span></strong>
Friday, October 24, 2025 8:41:36 PM<br>
<strong><span style=3D"font-family:"Aptos"=
,sans-serif">To:</span></strong>
Healeys <a href=3D"mailto:healeys@autox.team.net"; ta=
rget=3D"_blank" moz-do-not-send=3D"true"><healeys@autox.team.net></a><=
br>
<strong><span style=3D"font-family:"Aptos"=
,sans-serif">Subject:</span></strong>
[Healeys] Overdrive Conundrum </p>
<div>
<p class=3D"MsoNormal"> </p>
</div>
</div>
<div>
<div>
<p class=3D"MsoNormal" style=3D"margin-bottom:12pt">=
Listers,<br>
<br>
I have a problem with my BJ8's overdrive that
defies conventional logic: <br>
The O/D will not engage when the drivetrain is
cold, but begins to <br>
function more-or-less normally as the
drivetrain gets fully heated-up <br>
(15-20m on a warm day). I've checked the
functioning of the electricals; <br>
i.e. when not running I can a) disconnect the
coil ground so as not to <br>
fry the Pertonix Ignitor, b) place the gearbox
in 3rd or 4th and c) <br>
close either, or both, the dash switch and/or
the switch on the shift <br>
knob --they're wired in parallel so either one
will engage the O/D, but <br>
both need to be in off/open condition to
disengage--and I can hear the <br>
solenoid click firmly (this pretty much rules
out the switches). I have <br>
already replaced the scuttle relay to no
effect (I have had them get <br>
flaky). AFAIK, the throttle/'kickdown' switch
only comes into play when <br>
disengaging, and seems to work when the O/D
does engage.<br>
<br>
My thinking is, if the pump is failed or
failing the O/D might work when <br>
the fluid is cold but cease to function as the
fluid heats up and thins <br>
out (I've used Redline MT-90 successfully for
over 100K miles or more; <br>
it's equivalent to 50wt engine oil). But, the
O/D not engaging when cold <br>
(somewhat) refutes this theory. If the outlet
check valve on the pump <br>
was somehow boogered I would expect either a)
cold function only, or b) <br>
no function at all. Ditto the solenoid; I'd
expect it to get flakey when <br>
hot and it does 'click' reliably (when cold).
I can imagine the lever on <br>
the operating cam slipping, but wouldn't
expect that to vary with <br>
temperature (or to work at all, actually).
Actuating shaft lift was <br>
correctly set at rebuild. I do have a DWM
'uprated' accumulator <br>
installed, and the O/D engages within 2
seconds when it functions.<br>
<br>
Anyone had this condition, or have a theory as
to why it behaves this <br>
way? Next step would be to remove the console
and confirm I have good <br>
oil pressure (but if I do, then what?).<br>
<br>
TIA,<br>
Bob<br>
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