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Hey Bob,
Fletchers car had the cross brace modified, as I remember with a BFH. You
could remove it and take a bit out of the rear section of the tube, then
weld in a plate so it looks factory. Not certain you want to mess with
moving the rack forward. Fletchers motor had a gilmer belt drive for the
w/p and sump pump
Chip Collingwood
theukmotorsports.com
(804) 564-1839
On Wed, Sep 24, 2025, 11:05 AM Joe Boruch via Fot <fot@autox.team.net>
wrote:
> Bob, I don't know TR6s that well, but here's a different approach. Is
> there anyway to notch the front cross member and put spacers to move the
> steering rack? On Honda S2000s it's a common practice to make the front
> cross member removable to make pulling the engine easier. That did not
> make the change the structural integrity. Notching it can be done without
> reducing integrity. JoeB
>
> On Wednesday, September 24, 2025 at 09:14:43 AM EDT, Robert Lang via Fot <
> fot@autox.team.net> wrote:
>
>
> Hi,
>
> After I got my frame straightened last year, I've noticed that the
> clearance between the ATI harmonic dampener and the front cross member and
> the steering rack seems tighter than what I previously had. Granted how
> much metal had been bent in the crash, I'm not surprised.
>
> So, I have a question for the hive - to compensate, I plan to push the
> engine back a tad, maybe 1/4" or so using the "usual method" of installing
> a metal plate in the engine mount to frame interface. The question: in
> moving the engine back in small increments, will I have to "shorten" the
> driveshaft or is the driveshaft length (stock driveshaft and stock 4-speed
> TR6 transmission) already able to compensate for moving the engine back.
>
> I'm not planning to go wild and make the car "mid-engined". I'm just
> looking to compensate for some "rearranged metal" in the front of the car.
> That and I also had to switch back to "stock" rubber motor mounts as
> opposed to the HD units that TRF used to sell. Else, if there's a source
> for stiffer stock-type TR6 engine mounts, I'm all ears. The softer stock
> units allow a LOT of motion in both axis of motion.
>
> After two broken cranks this season and reviewing my in-car vids, it looks
> like I'm not abusing the self-imposed redline of 6000 except occasional
> hell-toe blips on downshifts (Hi Christian!!) that I need to smooth out.
> But I think the crank is hitting the frame while spinning and that's adding
> more stress to the snout of the crank.
>
> TIA
>
> Bob Lang
> 339 927 4489
> _______________________________________________
> fot@autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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> Unsubscribe/Manage:
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>
>
> _______________________________________________
> fot@autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot
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>
>
>
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Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
<div dir=3D"auto"><div>Hey Bob,</div><div dir=3D"auto"><br></div><div dir=
=3D"auto">Fletchers car had the cross brace modified, as I remember with a =
BFH. You could remove it and take a bit out of the rear section of the tube=
, then weld in a plate so it looks factory. Not certain you want to mess wi=
th moving the rack forward. Fletchers motor had a gilmer belt drive for the=
w/p and sump pump</div><div><br></div><div data-smartmail=3D"gmail_signatu=
re"><div dir=3D"ltr"><div><font face=3D"comic sans ms, sans-serif" color=3D=
"#000000">Chip Collingwood</font><div><a href=3D"http://theukmotorsports.co=
m" target=3D"_blank"><font face=3D"comic sans ms, sans-serif" color=3D"#000=
000">theukmotorsports.com</font></a></div><div><font face=3D"comic sans ms,=
sans-serif" color=3D"#000000">(804) 564-1839</font></div></div></div></div=
></div><br><div class=3D"gmail_quote gmail_quote_container"><div dir=3D"ltr=
" class=3D"gmail_attr">On Wed, Sep 24, 2025, 11:05 AM Joe Boruch via Fot &l=
t;<a href=3D"mailto:fot@autox.team.net";>fot@autox.team.net</a>> wrote:<b=
r></div><blockquote class=3D"gmail_quote" style=3D"margin:0 0 0 .8ex;border=
-left:1px #ccc solid;padding-left:1ex"><div><div style=3D"font-family:Helve=
tica Neue,Helvetica,Arial,sans-serif;font-size:13px"><div></div>
<div dir=3D"ltr">Bob, I don't know TR6s that well, but here'=
;s a different approach. Is there anyway to notch the front cross member an=
d put spacers to move the steering rack?=C2=A0 On Honda S2000s it's a c=
ommon practice to make the front cross member removable to make pulling the=
engine easier.=C2=A0 That did not make the change the structural integrity=
.=C2=A0 Notching it can be done without reducing integrity.=C2=A0 JoeB</div=
><div><br></div>
=20
</div><div id=3D"m_-7561427354850499664ydpc3e0a5c5yahoo_quoted_9309=
764022">
<div style=3D"font-family:'Helvetica Neue',Helvetica,Ar=
ial,sans-serif;font-size:13px;color:#26282a">
=20
<div>
On Wednesday, September 24, 2025 at 09:14:43 AM EDT=
, Robert Lang via Fot <<a href=3D"mailto:fot@autox.team.net"; target=3D"_=
blank" rel=3D"noreferrer">fot@autox.team.net</a>> wrote:
</div>
<div><br></div>
<div><br></div>
=20
=20
<div><div id=3D"m_-7561427354850499664ydpc3e0a5c5yiv1173296=
693"><div><div style=3D"font-family:Helvetica Neue,Helvetica,Arial,sans-ser=
if;font-size:13px"><div dir=3D"ltr">Hi,</div><div dir=3D"ltr"><br></div><di=
v dir=3D"ltr">After I got my frame straightened last year, I've noticed=
that the clearance between the ATI harmonic dampener and the front cross m=
ember and the steering rack seems tighter than what I previously had. Grant=
ed how much metal had been bent in the crash, I'm not surprised.</div><=
div dir=3D"ltr"><br></div><div dir=3D"ltr">So, I have a question for the hi=
ve - to compensate, I plan to push the engine back a tad, maybe 1/4" o=
r so using the "usual method" of installing a metal plate in the =
engine mount to frame interface. The question: in moving the engine back in=
small increments, will I have to "shorten" the driveshaft or is =
the driveshaft length (stock driveshaft and stock 4-speed TR6 transmission)=
already able to compensate for moving the engine back.</div><div dir=3D"lt=
r"><br></div><div dir=3D"ltr">I'm not planning to go wild and make the =
car "mid-engined". I'm just looking to compensate for some &q=
uot;rearranged metal" in the front of the car. That and I also had to =
switch back to "stock" rubber motor mounts as opposed to the HD u=
nits that TRF used to sell. Else, if there's a source for stiffer stock=
-type TR6 engine mounts, I'm all ears. The softer stock units allow a L=
OT of motion in both axis of motion.</div><div dir=3D"ltr"><br></div><div d=
ir=3D"ltr">After two broken cranks this season and reviewing my in-car vids=
, it looks like I'm not abusing the self-imposed redline of 6000 except=
occasional hell-toe blips on downshifts (Hi Christian!!) that I need to sm=
ooth out. But I think the crank is hitting the frame while spinning and tha=
t's adding more stress to the snout of the crank.</div><div dir=3D"ltr"=
><br></div><div dir=3D"ltr">TIA</div><div dir=3D"ltr"><br></div><div dir=3D=
"ltr">Bob Lang</div><div dir=3D"ltr">339 927 4489</div></div></div></div>__=
_____________________________________________<br><a href=3D"mailto:fot@auto=
x.team.net" rel=3D"nofollow noreferrer" target=3D"_blank">fot@autox.team.ne=
t</a><br><br><a href=3D"http://www.fot-racing.com"; rel=3D"nofollow noreferr=
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></div>
</div>
</div></div>_______________________________________________<br>
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fot@autox.team.net</a><br>
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Archive: <a href=3D"http://autox.team.net/archive"; rel=3D"noreferrer norefe=
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</blockquote></div>
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http://www.fot-racing.com
Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot
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