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Re: [Fot] TR6 Harmonic Dampener

To: "fot@autox.team.net" <fot@autox.team.net>, Robert Lang <robertlangtr6@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [Fot] TR6 Harmonic Dampener
From: Joe Boruch via Fot <fot@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 24 Sep 2025 14:11:00 +0000 (UTC)
Delivered-to: mharc@autox.team.net
Delivered-to: fot@autox.team.net
References: <1533351811.185448.1758718605121.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <1533351811.185448.1758718605121@mail.yahoo.com>
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 Bob, I don't know TR6s that well, but here's a different approach. Is ther=
e anyway to notch the front cross member and put spacers to move the steeri=
ng rack? =C2=A0On Honda S2000s it's a common practice to make the front cro=
ss member removable to make pulling the engine easier. =C2=A0That did not m=
ake the change the structural integrity. =C2=A0Notching it can be done with=
out reducing integrity. =C2=A0JoeB
    On Wednesday, September 24, 2025 at 09:14:43 AM EDT, Robert Lang via Fo=
t <fot@autox.team.net> wrote: =20
=20
 Hi,
After I got my frame straightened last year, I've noticed that the clearanc=
e between the ATI harmonic dampener and the front cross member and the stee=
ring rack seems tighter than what I previously had. Granted how much metal =
had been bent in the crash, I'm not surprised.
So, I have a question for the hive - to compensate, I plan to push the engi=
ne back a tad, maybe 1/4" or so using the "usual method" of installing a me=
tal plate in the engine mount to frame interface. The question: in moving t=
he engine back in small increments, will I have to "shorten" the driveshaft=
 or is the driveshaft length (stock driveshaft and stock 4-speed TR6 transm=
ission) already able to compensate for moving the engine back.
I'm not planning to go wild and make the car "mid-engined". I'm just lookin=
g to compensate for some "rearranged metal" in the front of the car. That a=
nd I also had to switch back to "stock" rubber motor mounts as opposed to t=
he HD units that TRF used to sell. Else, if there's a source for stiffer st=
ock-type TR6 engine mounts, I'm all ears. The softer stock units allow a LO=
T of motion in both axis of motion.
After two broken cranks this season and reviewing my in-car vids, it looks =
like I'm not abusing the self-imposed redline of 6000 except occasional hel=
l-toe blips on downshifts (Hi Christian!!) that I need to smooth out. But I=
 think the crank is hitting the frame while spinning and that's adding more=
 stress to the snout of the crank.
TIA
Bob Lang339 927 4489_______________________________________________
fot@autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot
o.com


 =20
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<html><head></head><body><div class=3D"ydp7ad2607ayahoo-style-wrap" style=
=3D"font-family:Helvetica Neue, Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif;font-size:13px=
;"><div></div>
        <div dir=3D"ltr" data-setdir=3D"false">Bob, I don't know TR6s that =
well, but here's a different approach. Is there anyway to notch the front c=
ross member and put spacers to move the steering rack? &nbsp;On Honda S2000=
s it's a common practice to make the front cross member removable to make p=
ulling the engine easier. &nbsp;That did not make the change the structural=
 integrity. &nbsp;Notching it can be done without reducing integrity. &nbsp=
;JoeB</div><div><br></div>
       =20
        </div><div id=3D"ydpc3e0a5c5yahoo_quoted_9309764022" class=3D"ydpc3=
e0a5c5yahoo_quoted">
            <div style=3D"font-family:'Helvetica Neue', Helvetica, Arial, s=
ans-serif;font-size:13px;color:#26282a;">
               =20
                <div>
                        On Wednesday, September 24, 2025 at 09:14:43 AM EDT=
, Robert Lang via Fot &lt;fot@autox.team.net&gt; wrote:
                    </div>
                    <div><br></div>
                    <div><br></div>
               =20
               =20
                <div><div id=3D"ydpc3e0a5c5yiv1173296693"><div><div style=
=3D"font-family:Helvetica Neue, Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif;font-size:13px=
;" class=3D"ydpc3e0a5c5yiv1173296693yahoo-style-wrap"><div dir=3D"ltr">Hi,<=
/div><div dir=3D"ltr"><br></div><div dir=3D"ltr">After I got my frame strai=
ghtened last year, I've noticed that the clearance between the ATI harmonic=
 dampener and the front cross member and the steering rack seems tighter th=
an what I previously had. Granted how much metal had been bent in the crash=
, I'm not surprised.</div><div dir=3D"ltr"><br></div><div dir=3D"ltr">So, I=
 have a question for the hive - to compensate, I plan to push the engine ba=
ck a tad, maybe 1/4" or so using the "usual method" of installing a metal p=
late in the engine mount to frame interface. The question: in moving the en=
gine back in small increments, will I have to "shorten" the driveshaft or i=
s the driveshaft length (stock driveshaft and stock 4-speed TR6 transmissio=
n) already able to compensate for moving the engine back.</div><div dir=3D"=
ltr"><br></div><div dir=3D"ltr">I'm not planning to go wild and make the ca=
r "mid-engined". I'm just looking to compensate for some "rearranged metal"=
 in the front of the car. That and I also had to switch back to "stock" rub=
ber motor mounts as opposed to the HD units that TRF used to sell. Else, if=
 there's a source for stiffer stock-type TR6 engine mounts, I'm all ears. T=
he softer stock units allow a LOT of motion in both axis of motion.</div><d=
iv dir=3D"ltr"><br></div><div dir=3D"ltr">After two broken cranks this seas=
on and reviewing my in-car vids, it looks like I'm not abusing the self-imp=
osed redline of 6000 except occasional hell-toe blips on downshifts (Hi Chr=
istian!!) that I need to smooth out. But I think the crank is hitting the f=
rame while spinning and that's adding more stress to the snout of the crank=
.</div><div dir=3D"ltr"><br></div><div dir=3D"ltr">TIA</div><div dir=3D"ltr=
"><br></div><div dir=3D"ltr">Bob Lang</div><div dir=3D"ltr">339 927 4489</d=
iv></div></div></div>_______________________________________________<br><a =
href=3D"mailto:fot@autox.team.net"; rel=3D"nofollow" target=3D"_blank">fot@a=
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