Perhaps a good handful of sawdust in the oil, and a couple of
bottle's of Barr's Leaks.
Jack, you'd probably gag if you saw how I prep a shim gasket, but
what I'm really trying to make is a homebrew composite that stays
together. I start with minimal protrusion of the liners--just enough
to catch a fingernail. Probably just .001 to .002. I have a vast
assortment of figure 8 gaskets and no two seem to be quite the same
thickness. Mix and match. I have a little beam I bolt diagonally
across the liner pairs to press them down without putting the head
back on.
I trim the gasket with a rotary grinder in the areas where I've
ground away liner to unshroud the intake valves. Then I glue two
circles of copper wire in the outer shim dimple with hot glue. I tack
them down first, then put a thin layer of glue all the way around
once they are in place. I also put a circle of glue around the oil
hole and the bolt holes--just for good luck. then I apply a thin
layer of Right Stuff gasket goop to the entire gasket on both sides.
I let it dry overnight. then I put a very thin coat of right stuff on
the block (so thin it's transparent) and assemble.
Of course at the track when you have to pull a head and replace a
sleeve all this goes to hell, and I just use a copper wire o-ring and
lots of goop except where it might block the oil hole. I do the hot
glue circle there to hold the goop away from the hole. I have a
couple of composite gaskets in the parts kit for extreme
circumstances, but I never expect them to last more than a race
weekend or two because the fire ring protrudes into the liner eyebrow
that all my liners have for unshrouding the intake valve.
On Jun 8, 2006, at 12:59 AM, Jack W. Drews wrote:
> At 01:20 AM 6/8/2006, you wrote:
>> Hi Jack,
>>
>> do you use this gasket? (picture removed)
>
> yes
>
>> After several tries with a copper gasket I use this type gasket and
>> it works great.
>
> If I have enough time, and the customer has the will and the money,
> the steel gasket works fine. But I always carefully measure the
> protrusion, mic the fig 8 gaskets, make new o-rings for the bottom to
> correct the protrusion.
>
> BUT -- that was not the man's question. He asked what to do with an
> engine with an uneven block and liners that weren't square. If you
> guys want to recommend that he use the steel gasket on an uneven
> block with liner protrusion varying from one side to another, well,
> okay -- good luck -- but he's talking about a fully assembled engine.
>
>> 0,5mm thick.
>>
>> Chris
>
> uncle jack
>
> ------------------------------------------------
> No Virus Found In This Message
> Scanned at barracuda.geneseo.net
>
>
> === Help keep Team.Net on the air
> === http://www.team.net/donate.html
|