You'll like it.
I made my upper arms adjustable for length (I used rose joints for the inner
pivots) and moved the upper pivot inwards about an inch. That gives you
camber adjustment and the longer upper arms keep the camber gain under
control. If you're running radials you might move the pivot inwards a little
less to get more camber gain. As with any change to the front suspension,
after you make it you have to measure your bump steer and do everything you
can to eliminate it. I'm convinced that the only reason people like stiff
springs in their LBCs is because they have too much bump. I've got Peyote as
bouncy as a pogo stick, and it absolutely rocks in the tight stuff.
-----Original Message-----
From: Randall Young [mailto:ryoung@navcomtech.com]
Sent: Tuesday, September 07, 2004 1:14 PM
To: Bill Babcock
Subject: RE: TR3 Frame (and other) work
Thanks, Bill.
Maybe someday I'll install those parts I've been hoarding all these years.
Randall
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-fot@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-fot@autox.team.net]On
> Behalf Of Bill Babcock
> Sent: Tuesday, September 07, 2004 8:48 AM
> To: 'Randall Young'; fot@autox.team.net
> Subject: RE: TR3 Frame (and other) work
>
>
> I like the added stability over bumps, especially at high speeds.
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-fot@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-fot@autox.team.net] On
> Behalf Of Randall Young
> Sent: Monday, September 06, 2004 8:23 PM
> To: fot@autox.team.net
> Subject: RE: TR3 Frame (and other) work
>
>
> > Actually, you need both the later TR-4 upper A-arms and the matched
> > lower trunnion to move from zero caster to 3 degrees caster. So,
> > you're both right.
>
> So is there any real improvement from the 3 deg caster ? My
> understanding is that it mostly just increases the centering force,
> which doesn't seem particularly relevant to handling as I define it.
>
> Randall
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