>> As an aside, anyone know the REAL difference in the Panasport
>> DOT approved and "lite" version of the wheels, different alloy's?
>> Do the "lite" version have anything etched on the sidewall to make
>> using them on the street a problem? I am talking about
>> current production runs, not one of the several older versions
>> I have seen.
>
>The real difference is a different alloy, and I'm pretty sure the temper
>is different too.
Actually, I think the difference is not in the alloy, it is in the
thickness of the castings. The Lites are just thinner all over. I have a
set for my Spit with slicks on them. I like them ALOT, but they are a
bit fragile due to the thin construction.
>I believe the castings for the "lights" say "For Racing Use Only". I have
>not seen any of the "newest" ones, but all the old ones def. say "racing
>only".
All the lites say "For Racing Use Only"
>As for using them on the street - sure. But if you hit a curb or a
>pothole - write off the wheel(s) that hit(s). They like smooth surfaces
>and nothing to "foul" them.
Do NOT use Lites on the street. The disadvantages far outweigh the
consequences.
The lites cost more, are easier to break, will get you in trouble with
the legal establishment,
and don't buy much in terms of performance.
>> 215VR65-15 Pilot Michelin would be my choice for the street,
>> believe J.K. runs 225VR50-15 for track use only with a
>> lowered car.
>
>Grassroots Motor Sports articles) on the street and I know a few folks
>that drive the Yoko A008's on the street. They don't last too long -
>maybe 10 to 12K miles, but they stick okay while they still have tread
>and the pavement is dry. If it gets wet - forget it!
I drive A008R's on the street. I get about 5-8K miles out of them. They
stick well, even in the rain until the tread gets too low. Then they
stick VERY well in the dry and not at all in even, say, a heavy fog. My
TR6 is pretty healthy engine wise, not lowered, Konis, and beefed up
sway bar. It has been the fastest 6 @ VTR on a number of occasions.
>
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