Stock steel wheels are 3.5" from the inside edge to
mount point, 3" to outside edge. The lips are .5
inch giving 5.5" wheel width. WhilThe centerline of
the tire is 1/4 inch inboard of the mount point.
Specs I have seen specify no more than 1/4 inch difference from
stock else you foul up the front end geometry, the TR6 is
too narrow and benefits from a wider track, so the ideal wheel
and the one that will avoid most contact with the upper inner
A-arm is a zerro offset wheel. Note the curve of the back of the
wheel is MOST important, this is never mentioned. I would
suggest using what is proven vs. $1k experiments, but its
your money.
the 15x7 Panasports, zero offset are ideal giving a 1/4 inch
ecah side offset from stock, i.e. a 1/2 wider track. These
workprovided you are running poly or nylon bushings wo the front
doesn't wobble
around. And if you aren't, I cannot help you anyway as this is
the cheapest bang for the buck on a TR6, ditto for the rear.
Sorry for the errors, I am typing from Rome, Italy, live on the Internet.
As an aside, anyone know the REAL difference in the Panasport
DOT approved and "lite" version of the wheels, different alloy's?
Do the "lite" version have anything etched on the sidewall to make
using them on the street a problem? I am talking about
current production runs, not one of the several older versions
I have seen.
215VR65-15 Pilot Michelin would be my choice for the street,
believe J.K. runs 225VR50-15 for track use only with a
lowered car.
Roger
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Roger G. Bolick, rgb@exact.com 512-794-9567, FAX 345-2879
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