Hi Joe Alexander
I have not gotten the final " in print " from SCCA about the billet cranks.
I am also waiting to hear about their attempt to outlaw my car's rear
suspension & possible class upheavel (again) so I have not asked to be put on
the crank list YET.
The hub lapping is standard lapping procedure (well most of us do not have
valves this size!) Test the tapers with die maker's blue (thin) compound (or
dark marking pen), or just do a trial lap with fine valve lapping compount.
Be certain to remove or completely isolate the bearing, as the compound may
not flush completely out of a bearing! I mount the HS vertically in the
protected jaws of a vise, apply the lapping compound liberally, but not
thickly (WD40 will thin the compound & is good when the origional oil starts
to dry) and press downwards on the hub, whilst rotating the hub with SHORT
back and forth motion, just like valve lapping. The hub should be lifted
clear of the HS frequently and rotationally moved to a different sector.
Avoid leaving deep rotational marks oh the HS! If the tapers are not exact,
or a hub has moved on the taper, course lapping compound will first be
needed. Always finish with fine compound, and dwell around the keyway match
at the end. Remove all traces of the compound, and assemble dry. I do not use
loctight during final assy.! Use selective hub nuts to align on the high
side (or a bit above) the torque figure. Remove the cotter key and recheck
the torque after the first session(s) until the torque holds.
I Hope you have a good trip! Good Racing from HP
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