I still don't understand this. I realize that the factory would have
dynamically balanced the prop shaft and axle shafts, but they wouldn't
have done this while the shafts were connected to the diff and tranny.
Therefore, why does it make a difference how you bolt the shafts to the
flanges? And if indeed it does make a difference, what is the right
orientation of the shaft flanges to the diff/tranny flanges? The
factory would have had to direct the assembly line workers on the
correct assembly orientation, right? This would be pretty useful
information to document on the 6pack list, considering the fact that
many of us have had these shafts out once or twice, and may have
replaced tranny's and/or diffs at some point (in my case, both). More
info please!
Tim Holbrook
1971 TR6 (with a wicked vibration over 75ish)
--- "Robert M. Lang" <lang@isis.mit.edu> wrote:
> Date: Sun, 1 Dec 2002 20:26:55 -0500 (EST)
> From: "Robert M. Lang" <lang@isis.mit.edu>
> To: "Robert L. Gannon" <trsix74@comcast.net>
> CC: 6pack@autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: Drive Shaft
>
> On Wed, 27 Nov 2002, Robert L. Gannon wrote:
>
> > Question to the List
>
> > Most manuals recommend that when removing the driveshaft, you
> should
> > mark the flanges, so that when replacement occurs, you can put it
> back
> > the same way. Why? If a shaft is balanced, what difference does it
> > make?
>
> The answer is that the shaft is dynamically balanced (actually _was_
> balanced at the factory). The flanges to connect the drive shaft to
> the
> tranny and diff are asymetrical, so it is possible to install 180
> degrees
> out of phase.
>
> Frankly, you probably won't notice any vibrations if the shaft is 180
> out,
> but you might have small vibrations as a result. YOU DO NOT WANT
> SMALL
> VIBRATIONS IN THE DRIVELINE!
>
> One odd thing I have seen on several occasions from unblanced drive
> shafts
> - the crank pulley working loose (with subsequent damage to the
> crankshaft!)
>
> So it is a good idea to check the balance of the whole assembly if
> you
> can. If you've swapped motors, trannies, diffs and who knows what
> else,
> you just have to take your chances.
>
> > Robert L. Gannon
> > trsix74@comcast.net
> > TR6 1974 CF22956U
> > TR3A 1960 TS70951L
> > http://hometown.aol.com/twodzusfittings/myhomepage/auto.html
>
> I wouldn't lose any sleep over this, but if you are taking your 6
> apart
> and you know it to be factory original, then you should mark things
> when
> taking them apart.
>
> rml
>
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