Author: jeremiah at curryclan.net (Jeremiah Curry)
Date: Sat, 3 Dec 2011 11:34:45 -0700
Howdy all, I while back I had some card trouble on a long drive to my new house. The consensus was the my headgasket was blown. Usual symptons: overhating, white smoke, steam or smoke coming from val
Sure is, sounds like the break is just allowing coolant to be sucked into the combustion chamber. DTDT. Sent from mobile Bill http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech at flash.net
Yes, it is. The cause of the discoloration in oil and/or coolant is one of them getting into the other through the gasket leak. If the leak is from the combustion chamber directly to the outside, tho
Could also be a cracked head. --Original Message-- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Wbeech Sent: Saturday, December 03, 2011 12:06 PM
Author: jeremiah at curryclan.net (Jeremiah Curry)
Date: Sat, 3 Dec 2011 15:04:07 -0700
Someone else mentioned that if it is the headgasket I should see bubbles in the radiator with the cap off. Would that be true for the type of problem Bill mentioned? I don't, but i didn't let the mot
If it is a crack, it may be that one of their welds did not hold. _____ Someone else mentioned that if it is the headgasket I should see bubbles in the radiator with the cap off. Would that be true f
Unfortunately, I'd say that almost guarantees that one of the welds didn't hold. Welding cast iron is very tricky, and the result is almost always not as strong as the original casting (which wasn't
You know you're going to have to pull the head, 45min, let us know what you find. Sure hope it is only the head gasket. Presumably when they magnafluxed the head it was checked for true at the same t
Author: diggle at clear.net.nz (diggle at clear.net.nz)
Date: Sun, 04 Dec 2011 22:07:12 +1300
I agree with Randall, my TR4 head went between 2 and 3 about 10 years ago without bubbling or the oil and water mixing. I had the head welded up. Jim and the TR4.
Author: jeremiah at curryclan.net (Jeremiah Curry)
Date: Mon, 5 Dec 2011 19:03:09 -0700
Wow you must be a better mechanic than me (it doesn't take much) I have spent about 2 hours and have it to the point where I should be able to pull the head now. However I can't get it to budge, but
All studs, thermostat housing, intake/exhaust manifold. I hope you are using a plastic or dead-blow hammer... not a big ole ball peener. I don' think I would use compression as this might cause the s
Author: jeremiah at curryclan.net (Jeremiah Curry)
Date: Mon, 5 Dec 2011 19:48:26 -0700
I got the manifolds and thermostat housing off. I just took the head nuts off the studs. Do I need to take the studs off too? _____ All studs, thermostat housing, intake/exhaust manifold. I hope you
There's the "rope trick". Turn the engine until 1 and 4 are at BTDC. Take a length of hemp rope - you'll need 20 feet perhaps - and shove it into the #1 and #4 spark plug holes, as much as you can.
No. I almost never remove the studs unless there is a problem, and even then I remove the head first. To loosen the head, I find that it is usually sufficient to gently pry between the bottom of the
Happy Holidays List! Chris K. wrote: It might work. There's a good chance that you've got a lot of rust on the studs, and even if it's no longer rusted between the studs and the head, there will be a
Author: jeremiah at curryclan.net (Jeremiah Curry)
Date: Wed, 7 Dec 2011 20:04:39 -0700
Thanks Randall and everyone else for the advice. I was able to use the prying method and get the head off. Now I have the liners secured and covered. My question is how do I tell if the old gasket wa
I'd have the head checked and not worry about the old gasket. You won't want to use it in any case. If the head checks good you will then want to reassemble it using a new gasket. Joe --Original Mess
I've changed many a blown head gasket. In my case, it was normally a milky oil deal. Maybe one or two were blowing water out of the radiator instead of into the oil. At any rate, sometimes you can te
I agree. It's not always apparent where it was leaking. But be sure to check the liner protrusion on both sides. Two engines in a row now (for me) have had the top of the block not quite square to t