I'd have the head checked and not worry about the old gasket. You won't
want to use it in any case. If the head checks good you will then want to
reassemble it using a new gasket.
Joe
-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Jeremiah Curry
Sent: Wednesday, December 07, 2011 8:05 PM
To: 'Randall'
Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] blown headgasket without milky coolant or oil?
Thanks Randall and everyone else for the advice.
I was able to use the prying method and get the head off. Now I have the
liners secured and covered. My question is how do I tell if the old gasket
was bad? The cylinders and pistons are covered in a lot of carbon for an
engine that has only driven about 700-1000 miles since the head was
machined. However it was running rich that whole time. Or would driving
with a blown gasket cause carbon buildup? It looks as if the gasket might
be a little darker between two of the gaskets, is that a sign of leakage
there?
Thanks,
Jeremiah
-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Randall
Sent: Monday, December 05, 2011 8:18 PM
Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] blown headgasket without milky coolant or oil?
> I got the manifolds and thermostat housing off. I just took the head
> nuts
> off the studs. Do I need to take the studs off too?
No. I almost never remove the studs unless there is a problem, and even
then I remove the head first.
To loosen the head, I find that it is usually sufficient to gently pry
between the bottom of the water outlet and the water pump housing. Once the
front moves up a bit, wiggle it up and down while lifting on the rear, and
it usually comes up. Don't forget it has to come up square, otherwise it
will bind on the studs.
However, if the head is stuck like that, then IMO the liners will be stuck
as well, and not likely to move.
-- Randall
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