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1. Re: [TR] Triumphs Digest, Vol 5, Issue 96 (score: 1): Author: spamiam@comcast.net; Date: Fri, 18 Mar 2011 12:33:44 +0000 (UTC); Thanks to several quick responders about my question of converting TR6 rear shocks to tubes. The overwhelming consensus is to retain the lever shocks, perhaps in upgraded form. This info will be forw; /html/triumphs/2011-03/msg00193.html (8,634 bytes)
2. Re: [TR] Triumphs Digest, Vol 5, Issue 96 (score: 1): Author: "Michael Marr" <mmarr@notwires.com>; Date: Fri, 18 Mar 2011 07:56:35 -0500; R3JpbmQgdGhlIGxlYWRpbmcgZWRnZSBvZiBhZGphY2VudCB0d28gZmx1dGVzIGJsdW50LCBhbmQg bGlnaHRseSBibHVudCB0aGVpciBwZXJpcGhlcmllcy4gwqAgwqBDdXQgYWxsIHRoZSBvdGhlciBm bHV0ZXMgc2hhcnAgYSBiaXQgc2hvcnRlciBhbmQgZG9uJ; /html/triumphs/2011-03/msg00194.html (7,430 bytes)
3. Re: [TR] Triumphs Digest, Vol 5, Issue 96 (score: 1): Author: "Randall" <tr3driver@ca.rr.com>; Date: Fri, 18 Mar 2011 13:26:36 -0700; The cutting edge of the reamer flutes is at 45 degrees to the axis. If the cutting edges are cut by hand, the cutting edges will not all be the same length and the average radius of the frustum form; /html/triumphs/2011-03/msg00195.html (7,614 bytes)
4. Re: [TR] Triumphs Digest, Vol 5, Issue 96 (score: 1): Author: Frank Fisher <yellowtr3@yahoo.com>; Date: Fri, 18 Mar 2011 13:56:08 -0700 (PDT); Wow at the hair splitting. Just taper the trailing edge of the reamer. The= angle of a few degrees is all you need. The tool its self will do the work= just fine. If you are anal about it coat the fr; /html/triumphs/2011-03/msg00196.html (8,683 bytes)
5. Re: [TR] Triumphs Digest, Vol 5, Issue 96 (score: 1): Author: "Cliff Hansen" <cliff_hansen@earthlink.net>; Date: Fri, 18 Mar 2011 14:10:38 -0700; FLocking kits are available at craft stores in a limited variety of colors, but tan and green are among them. The kit consists of what is essentially a very thick paint/ adhesive in the color you're; /html/triumphs/2011-03/msg00197.html (8,690 bytes)
6. Re: [TR] Triumphs Digest, Vol 5, Issue 96 (score: 1): Author: John Herrera <jrherrera90@hotmail.com>; Date: Fri, 18 Mar 2011 17:30:55 -0400; I have a set on the shelf from an Arizona TR250. no pits/no flaking its here or eBAY. Thanks! n197tr4@cs.com _______________________________________________ Triumphs@autox.team.net Donate: http://www; /html/triumphs/2011-03/msg00198.html (8,183 bytes)
7. Re: [TR] Triumphs Digest, Vol 5, Issue 96 (score: 1): Author: "Michael Marr" <mmarr@notwires.com>; Date: Fri, 18 Mar 2011 17:47:09 -0500; I was asked to forward this to the list, for those of you that might be interested. NFI on my part and I am not even sure how Dave got my name. Mike Hi Mike, I'm dave from over on Mark's Healey list.; /html/triumphs/2011-03/msg00202.html (9,988 bytes)
8. Re: [TR] Triumphs Digest, Vol 5, Issue 96 (score: 1): Author: "Randall" <tr3driver@ca.rr.com>; Date: Fri, 18 Mar 2011 16:14:44 -0700; Sorry, Ronnie. I wasn't trying to offend anyone, just wanted to understand the reamer sharpening issue in general. I think I've got it now, so I'll shut up. -- Randall ______________________________; /html/triumphs/2011-03/msg00204.html (9,314 bytes)
9. Re: [TR] Triumphs Digest, Vol 5, Issue 96 (score: 1): Author: "Michael Marr" <mmarr@notwires.com>; Date: Fri, 18 Mar 2011 20:17:10 -0500; THey are available from the usual sources. Red thick cardboard type material. You shim them up so that the hood aligns correctly with the front cowl. Tom -- Original Message -- From: "Angelo Graham"; /html/triumphs/2011-03/msg00208.html (9,468 bytes)
10. Re: [TR] Triumphs Digest, Vol 5, Issue 96 (score: 1): Author: "Randall" <tr3driver@ca.rr.com>; Date: Fri, 18 Mar 2011 18:33:13 -0700; Hi Folks, I'm just getting the '67 4A going again after installing Herman's Toyota conversion and R.Good's Nissan rear end. There's no problems with these, and in fact it's really nice to run on the; /html/triumphs/2011-03/msg00209.html (8,326 bytes)
11. Re: [TR] Triumphs Digest, Vol 5, Issue 96 (score: 1): Author: pethier@comcast.net; Date: Sat, 19 Mar 2011 02:27:49 +0000 (UTC); Sounds to me like you just did. It isn't. -- Randall _______________________________________________ Triumphs@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $11.47; /html/triumphs/2011-03/msg00211.html (9,778 bytes)
12. Re: [TR] Triumphs Digest, Vol 5, Issue 96 (score: 1): Author: "Michael Marr" <mmarr@notwires.com>; Date: Fri, 18 Mar 2011 21:40:40 -0500; Your car is rejecting the non-Triumph donor organs. mjb. _______________________________________________ Triumphs@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $11.; /html/triumphs/2011-03/msg00212.html (8,860 bytes)
13. [TR] Triumphs Digest, Vol 5, Issue 96 (score: 1): Author: spamiam at comcast.net (spamiam at comcast.net); Date: Fri, 18 Mar 2011 12:33:44 +0000 (UTC); Gary, I had an easy time using a dremel cut-off wheel to make the back-cuts on the flutes to get it to cut toward the shank. It was easy enough to do by hand. I'm not sure I would shell out $80 to ha; /html/triumphs/2011-03/msg00507.html (9,700 bytes)
14. [TR] Triumphs Digest, Vol 5, Issue 96 (score: 1): Author: mmarr at notwires.com (Michael Marr); Date: Fri, 18 Mar 2011 07:56:35 -0500; My concern with modifying the reamer by hand is that you could make the reamer cut oversize, which kind of negates the whole purpose of using the reamer in the first place. But this is just my opinio; /html/triumphs/2011-03/msg00508.html (9,545 bytes)
15. [TR] Triumphs Digest, Vol 5, Issue 96 (score: 1): Author: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall); Date: Fri, 18 Mar 2011 13:26:36 -0700; That would actually be a very useful trick sometimes. If anyone figures out how to make a reamer cut larger by grinding metal away from it, please let me know! -- Randall; /html/triumphs/2011-03/msg00509.html (9,122 bytes)
16. [TR] Triumphs Digest, Vol 5, Issue 96 (score: 1): Author: yellowtr3 at yahoo.com (Frank Fisher); Date: Fri, 18 Mar 2011 13:56:08 -0700 (PDT); of all the clumsy things i have managed to do, i cant do that with a ream. iv successfully managed it with drill bits, many, many times ;-) Frank That would actually be a very useful trick sometimes.; /html/triumphs/2011-03/msg00510.html (10,467 bytes)
17. [TR] Triumphs Digest, Vol 5, Issue 96 (score: 1): Author: cliff_hansen at earthlink.net (Cliff Hansen); Date: Fri, 18 Mar 2011 14:10:38 -0700; One pass with a file to meet the obligation of removing metal from the reamer. Then bend the reamer and use it. The eccentric movement will cut a larger hole. I'm sure that's not the solution you wan; /html/triumphs/2011-03/msg00511.html (10,746 bytes)
18. [TR] Triumphs Digest, Vol 5, Issue 96 (score: 1): Author: jrherrera90 at hotmail.com (John Herrera); Date: Fri, 18 Mar 2011 17:30:55 -0400; Or if you don't hold it perfectly straight! I have experimented with this. John H.; /html/triumphs/2011-03/msg00512.html (10,464 bytes)
19. [TR] Triumphs Digest, Vol 5, Issue 96 (score: 1): Author: mmarr at notwires.com (Michael Marr); Date: Fri, 18 Mar 2011 17:47:09 -0500; If the new cutting edges that you create with your dremel are not all the same length and angle, it will force the reamer to rotate eccentricly and create a hole that is larger than its nominal diame; /html/triumphs/2011-03/msg00516.html (11,550 bytes)
20. [TR] Triumphs Digest, Vol 5, Issue 96 (score: 1): Author: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall); Date: Fri, 18 Mar 2011 16:14:44 -0700; Yes, but that happens because a drill bit is normally working from a "center" at the tip. Grind one lip longer than the other, and the point is no longer in the middle of the drill (making it farthe; /html/triumphs/2011-03/msg00518.html (10,770 bytes)

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