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Total 635 documents matching your query.

101. [TR] TR3 Gearbox Oil (score: 131): Author: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall); Date: Fri, 1 Apr 2011 17:17:19 -0700; My previous reply was apparently too long, so here is the abbreviated version: The actual change point did not correspond to any change in the gearbox. The factory switched back and forth several tim; /html/triumphs/2011-04/msg00227.html (9,456 bytes)
102. [TR] TR3 Gearbox Oil (score: 131): Author: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall); Date: Sat, 2 Apr 2011 11:48:46 -0700; Sorry, don't know anything about it. But sounds like it would probably be OK. Ken Gillanders wrote a few years back about some synthetics being too "slick" for good synchro operation, but the SWEPCO; /html/triumphs/2011-04/msg00234.html (9,504 bytes)
103. [TR] TR4A Driving Lights (score: 131): Author: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall); Date: Sat, 2 Apr 2011 15:27:01 -0700; FWIW, I wasn't all that pleased with the Hellas I bought many years ago. They looked good at first, but the reflectors dimmed with time and the lens eventually fell off of one of them (while changin; /html/triumphs/2011-04/msg00236.html (8,252 bytes)
104. [TR] Grant ring set question (score: 131): Author: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall); Date: Mon, 4 Apr 2011 18:15:05 -0700; Ed, If you must use those antique pistons, I would suggest contacting Grant to see if they can make an oil control ring that will fit properly in the third groove (and leave the 4th empty). -- Randal; /html/triumphs/2011-04/msg00259.html (7,557 bytes)
105. [TR] TR4A Dual Exhaust Question (score: 131): Author: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall); Date: Tue, 5 Apr 2011 13:44:24 -0700; If the exhaust is still hot enough to turn chrome blue at the end of the tailpipe, I suspect your EGT is way too high. Since high EGT can do a whole lot worse than turn the bumper blue, I'd double-c; /html/triumphs/2011-04/msg00266.html (7,990 bytes)
106. [TR] exhaust resinator (score: 131): Author: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall); Date: Tue, 5 Apr 2011 19:42:52 -0700; AFAIK, it's just a difference in terminology, used by Moss to differentiate between the two mufflers. The factory parts catalog calls them both "silencers", and they appear identical except for leng; /html/triumphs/2011-04/msg00268.html (8,371 bytes)
107. [TR] Ignition question; not really TR, but could be! (score: 131): Author: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall); Date: Sat, 9 Apr 2011 00:42:49 -0700; That would be a very typical value for an "external ballast required" coil, which is what most cars after 1970 or so used (until the advent of HEI, etc). The car will have some sort of resistance (l; /html/triumphs/2011-04/msg00291.html (8,377 bytes)
108. [TR] Headlights/driving lights/relays/fuses/connectors (score: 131): Author: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall); Date: Sat, 9 Apr 2011 13:35:01 -0700; The real problem is that fusible links are not rated in amps. Instead they are rated by wire gauge, and should be one size smaller than the circuit they protect. Just in case I wasn't clear before,; /html/triumphs/2011-04/msg00298.html (9,401 bytes)
109. [TR] Subject: Re: Headlights/driving lights/relays/fuses/connectors (score: 131): Author: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall); Date: Mon, 11 Apr 2011 15:25:19 -0700; Not really. The issue remains that fuses sometimes fail for reasons other than too much current through them. In my case (when the headlights went out while going down a mountain at night), the prob; /html/triumphs/2011-04/msg00312.html (8,164 bytes)
110. [TR] headlamp removal (score: 131): Author: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall); Date: Mon, 11 Apr 2011 16:26:00 -0700; IMO, just do the tool. Got an old PC lying around? I hear that I/O slot covers make a usable tool. Mine is made from an old hacksaw blade (so perhaps 1/2" wide). I heated it with a propane torch to; /html/triumphs/2011-04/msg00314.html (8,159 bytes)
111. [TR] headlamp removal (score: 131): Author: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall); Date: Mon, 11 Apr 2011 18:29:24 -0700; Oops, forgot to mention that. The manual suggests using a prying motion, rather than pulling. But you are quite right about under the clip being the best place to do it. -- Randall; /html/triumphs/2011-04/msg00319.html (7,998 bytes)
112. [TR] od wiring (score: 131): Author: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall); Date: Wed, 13 Apr 2011 15:57:57 -0700; The diagram I have for a GT6 Mk-3 shows: W1 gets power from terminal 3 on the ignition switch W2 goes to the gearbox switch C1 gets power from terminal 2 on the ignition switch C2 goes to the soleno; /html/triumphs/2011-04/msg00322.html (7,881 bytes)
113. [TR] exhaust (score: 131): Author: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall); Date: Thu, 14 Apr 2011 07:13:07 -0700; I'd be more worried about the effect on the exhaust system (and the driver). The engine actually moves around a fair amount on it's mounts (unless you've eliminated the rubber in those as well), and; /html/triumphs/2011-04/msg00326.html (7,618 bytes)
114. [TR] OD output bearing OD (score: 131): Author: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall); Date: Thu, 14 Apr 2011 10:51:31 -0700; Does anyone happen to know the outside diameter of the TR2-6 gearbox or overdrive output bearing, Stanpart 513897 ? (This is actually the same bearing for all 3 cases: non-OD, A-type and J-type.) --; /html/triumphs/2011-04/msg00327.html (6,985 bytes)
115. [TR] TR OD Trans usage (score: 131): Author: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall); Date: Thu, 14 Apr 2011 20:07:07 -0700; They do. And hence, assuming everything is working correctly, the only thing that would happen is the car backs up. -- Randall; /html/triumphs/2011-04/msg00334.html (7,686 bytes)
116. [TR] Wiper Switch Hook-up (score: 131): Author: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall); Date: Sat, 16 Apr 2011 13:48:47 -0700; Sure, that will work (assuming you really have the same switch, there are several different ones that look nearly identical). Connect ground (black) to pin 1, slow speed (red/light green according t; /html/triumphs/2011-04/msg00344.html (8,362 bytes)
117. [TR] Non-TR Tractor Engine Question (score: 131): Author: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall); Date: Tue, 19 Apr 2011 11:03:46 -0700; After checking the things Alex outlined, I'd either pull it apart myself, or find an "auto electric" shop that can do it for you. $225 is a reasonable price for a full rebuild, but they can frequent; /html/triumphs/2011-04/msg00353.html (8,638 bytes)
118. [TR] TR3 Brake light switch (score: 131): Author: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall); Date: Fri, 22 Apr 2011 13:22:42 -0700; It worked for me. ISTR they gave me one from an old Ford pickup truck. But it depends on who you get at the counter. Yes, but you can minimize it by using something to hold the brake pedal partially; /html/triumphs/2011-04/msg00366.html (8,610 bytes)
119. [TR] TR6 starting issue (score: 131): Author: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall); Date: Fri, 22 Apr 2011 15:29:56 -0700; Ed, The starter is where I would look first. Other things to try might be checking the static timing, or try changing the distributor cap. -- Randall; /html/triumphs/2011-04/msg00367.html (7,294 bytes)
120. [TR] Stalling Issue (score: 131): Author: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall); Date: Sat, 23 Apr 2011 00:11:55 -0700; Not on a TR3 -- Randall; /html/triumphs/2011-04/msg00371.html (7,591 bytes)

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