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321. RE: Rough Running TR6 (score: 1)
Author: "Randall" <tr3driver@comcast.net>
Date: Sun, 1 Aug 2004 08:03:28 -0700
Yes. Might be the point plate is binding, or (more likely IMO) the vacuum module has developed an internal leak. But it's only for emissions reduction at idle, the engine will run fine otherwise exc
/html/triumphs/2004-08/msg00793.html (7,249 bytes)

322. RE: Have I ruined my starter (score: 1)
Author: "Randall" <tr3driver@comcast.net>
Date: Sun, 1 Aug 2004 08:29:41 -0700
Most likely, you've only run the battery down. IMO a couple of minutes is too long. If you didn't get oil pressure in that length of time cranking with the plugs out, then something is wrong. Randal
/html/triumphs/2004-08/msg00795.html (7,483 bytes)

323. RE: Help - rough running TR6 (score: 1)
Author: "Randall" <tr3driver@comcast.net>
Date: Sun, 1 Aug 2004 17:40:18 -0700
Joe, my suggestion is to run the valves again. There is no natural process that will make the valve gaps too small, except for valve seat recession. And if it is recession, 300 miles is plenty for t
/html/triumphs/2004-08/msg00808.html (7,234 bytes)

324. RE: New Moss Carb Float Bowl Bolt (score: 1)
Author: "Randall" <tr3driver@comcast.net>
Date: Sun, 1 Aug 2004 23:10:19 -0700
In spite of the Moss catalog, the carb bodies were different between the different float bowl mounting arrangements, to compensate for the difference in mount height. However, your 60 should have th
/html/triumphs/2004-08/msg00816.html (8,353 bytes)

325. RE: engine plate? (score: 1)
Author: "Randall" <tr3driver@comcast.net>
Date: Sun, 1 Aug 2004 23:10:19 -0700
No, I don't believe so. However, a '66 would most likely be a TR4A engine, which means you probably want to keep the flywheel from your '3. The 4A flywheel only takes the 4A (and later) clutch, whic
/html/triumphs/2004-08/msg00817.html (7,658 bytes)

326. RE: Money Matters (score: 1)
Author: "Randall" <tr3driver@comcast.net>
Date: Mon, 2 Aug 2004 11:24:51 -0700
I thought we had been over this ... a cashier's check is the same as cash, in the sense that it can be forged and if you try to pass a forgery (by depositing it in your bank account), then the bank
/html/triumphs/2004-08/msg00837.html (8,578 bytes)

327. RE: Money Matters (score: 1)
Author: "Randall" <tr3driver@comcast.net>
Date: Mon, 2 Aug 2004 11:31:35 -0700
Normally no. No worse than writing someone a personal check ... your account number is on those. One way to solve the problem is to do the transaction while the bank is open, and have your bank do a
/html/triumphs/2004-08/msg00838.html (8,217 bytes)

328. RE: oil pressure (score: 1)
Author: "Randall" <tr3driver@comcast.net>
Date: Mon, 2 Aug 2004 11:37:31 -0700
In my case, I added a junction point in the alternator output wire, where all my high current accessories are connected. With the engine running (which is the usual case), this is the highest voltag
/html/triumphs/2004-08/msg00839.html (7,949 bytes)

329. RE: Confirming Float Bowl Level Relative to Carb Body (score: 1)
Author: "Randall" <tr3driver@comcast.net>
Date: Mon, 2 Aug 2004 14:31:01 -0700
Yes it does, when the engine is not running. When the engine is running, the jet is full to the top, regardless. The "depression" above the jet is fairly constant (which is why this is called a 'con
/html/triumphs/2004-08/msg00851.html (8,833 bytes)

330. RE: oil pressure (score: 1)
Author: "Randall" <tr3driver@comcast.net>
Date: Mon, 2 Aug 2004 17:29:58 -0700
Geo Hahn replied : <snip> On a TR3, the horns are powered from the battery side of the ammeter (and besides have no convenient terminal on the side to connect things to). If you take your fan power
/html/triumphs/2004-08/msg00859.html (8,518 bytes)

331. RE: oil pressure (score: 1)
Author: "Randall" <tr3driver@comcast.net>
Date: Mon, 2 Aug 2004 18:09:52 -0700
I don't recall offhand, do the later regulators (control box) have an extra terminal on A1 ? If so, that would be an ideal place to tap power for the fan. If not, then I think you'll need to tap int
/html/triumphs/2004-08/msg00863.html (8,407 bytes)

332. RE: TR-4 Rear Main Seal (score: 1)
Author: "Randall" <tr3driver@comcast.net>
Date: Mon, 2 Aug 2004 20:51:00 -0700
I've not heard of one, and there are several people in the same boat. However, it is possible to have the crank surface built up with welding and then ground back down. ISTR years ago being quoted $
/html/triumphs/2004-08/msg00871.html (8,139 bytes)

333. RE: Profile of tyres for TR's (score: 1)
Author: "Randall" <tr3driver@comcast.net>
Date: Mon, 2 Aug 2004 22:39:53 -0700
If you really want to get it right (note that there were different tire options available at different times, each with it's own rolling diameter) ... look for the calibration number printed on your
/html/triumphs/2004-08/msg00875.html (7,946 bytes)

334. RE: TR-4 Rear Main Seal (score: 1)
Author: "Randall" <tr3driver@comcast.net>
Date: Tue, 3 Aug 2004 06:31:22 -0700
Nope, no way to install it at all. The flywheel flange on the TRactor motor is quite a bit bigger than the seal surface. Randall Check out the new British Cars Forum: http://www.team.net/the-local/t
/html/triumphs/2004-08/msg00880.html (8,755 bytes)

335. RE: TR-4 Rear Main Seal (score: 1)
Author: "Randall" <tr3driver@comcast.net>
Date: Tue, 3 Aug 2004 07:05:11 -0700
Definitely requires a special seal, which is split to allow it to fit over the flange. There is a coil spring that is assembled separately (the ends hook together) and then put on the seal after the
/html/triumphs/2004-08/msg00882.html (9,176 bytes)

336. RE: Distributor Question (score: 1)
Author: "Randall" <tr3driver@comcast.net>
Date: Tue, 3 Aug 2004 14:26:08 -0700
If you're certain you were on #1, then my guess would be that the timing mark is in the wrong place. As I recall, the TR6 has a rubber layer between the hub and the pulley that may have slipped. Ano
/html/triumphs/2004-08/msg00891.html (7,658 bytes)

337. RE: TR-4 Rear Main Seal (score: 1)
Author: "Randall" <tr3driver@comcast.net>
Date: Tue, 3 Aug 2004 14:32:04 -0700
Paul, I'm not sure if Ted sells the same seal kit that Racetorations and BFE do ... but I have a set of instructions from Racetorations that have the 2.500" (63.5mm) dimension scratched out, and 2.5
/html/triumphs/2004-08/msg00892.html (8,363 bytes)

338. RE: Rear Springs on a TR4 (score: 1)
Author: "Randall" <tr3driver@comcast.net>
Date: Wed, 4 Aug 2004 08:19:05 -0700
Normally, since a front swaybar increases the roll stiffness in the front, thereby reducing the overall amount of roll in a turn, it will make the car less apt to lift a rear wheel. A rear bar will
/html/triumphs/2004-08/msg00901.html (9,377 bytes)

339. RE: Rear Springs on a TR4 (score: 1)
Author: "Randall" <tr3driver@comcast.net>
Date: Wed, 4 Aug 2004 08:39:20 -0700
Randall babbled in reply : Oops, I'm sorry Scott, I hadn't read your previous post. When I wrote the above comment, I thought you were saying you had no front swaybar. If you've already got a front b
/html/triumphs/2004-08/msg00902.html (9,816 bytes)

340. RE: Help needed in Norway - again (score: 1)
Author: "Randall" <tr3driver@comcast.net>
Date: Wed, 4 Aug 2004 16:30:21 -0700
I agree that incorrect assembly is most likely. The "top hat" insulator must go through the wires and spring to insulate them from the post and nut. Other, rare possibilities include a shorted conde
/html/triumphs/2004-08/msg00917.html (8,312 bytes)

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