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41. Re: PDWA options (score: 1): Author: egilk@oslonett.no (Egil Kvaleberg); Date: Fri, 18 Aug 1995 10:40:11 +0200; Well put. If you are capable of fixing your own PDWA, you definitely would notice the difference in brake pedal feel withou the aid of a lamp! Although I haven't done so myself, I would really think; /html/triumphs/1995-08/msg00263.html (8,394 bytes)
42. Service Notes (score: 1): Author: egilk@oslonett.no (Egil Kvaleberg); Date: Fri, 18 Aug 1995 10:12:15 +0200; The Triumph 2000/2500/2.5 register has now collected their wisdom into a over one inch thick binder called: Triumph 2000/2500/2.5 Service Notes The Service Notes is not a repair handbook, it is obvio; /html/triumphs/1995-08/msg00264.html (7,909 bytes)
43. Re: Fan Belt / Alternator Pulley (score: 1): Author: egilk@oslonett.no (Egil Kvaleberg); Date: Sun, 20 Aug 1995 15:09:52 +0200; What a splendid idea! The traditional method is to place an old fan belt around the pulley, and tighten up the belt around the pulley in a vice. This will normally allow enough tension to be applied; /html/triumphs/1995-08/msg00282.html (8,927 bytes)
44. Re: Spitfire MkIII with Toledo engine (score: 1): Author: egilk@oslonett.no (Egil Kvaleberg); Date: Wed, 23 Aug 1995 10:05:56 +0200; Aaaaaah, so you don't know what a Toledo is! Watch this: Once upon a time (in 1965) Triumph decided that to complete their range, they too had to jump on the front-wheel-drive bandwagon. So they made; /html/triumphs/1995-08/msg00340.html (9,644 bytes)
45. Triumph colour codes (score: 1): Author: egilk@oslonett.no (Egil Kvaleberg); Date: Wed, 06 Sep 1995 13:06:40 +0200; Code 32 is Signal Red. There is a complete (I think) list of Triumph colour codes at: http://www.oslonett.no/home/egilk/t_tech.htm#paint I am trying to get hold of a colour chart, so that I can scan; /html/triumphs/1995-09/msg00074.html (7,987 bytes)
46. Re: 2 More questions (score: 1): Author: egilk@oslonett.no (Egil Kvaleberg); Date: Thu, 07 Sep 1995 07:05:31 +0200; Is that an 'A' overdrive? The 'A' has two coils, one high current for engaging, one low current for holding. A contact within the solenoid disconnects the high power coil when the solenoid is fully e; /html/triumphs/1995-09/msg00127.html (8,386 bytes)
47. Re: Misc. GT6 questions (score: 1): Author: egilk@oslonett.no (Egil Kvaleberg); Date: Mon, 11 Sep 1995 09:06:24 +0200; Me. Beside the obvious hole cutting, you'll have to do form a lip around the edge, and weld in small strengthening pieces in the corners. Quite basic metalworking skills, and it is all hidden by alum; /html/triumphs/1995-09/msg00200.html (9,274 bytes)
48. Re: <intro/gas octane/additives> Spit wiring mysteries (long) (score: 1): Author: egilk@oslonett.no (Egil Kvaleberg); Date: Thu, 28 Sep 1995 02:55:34 +0200; His would be blue, I assume ;-) ^^^ ^^^ ^^^^ ^ ^^^^^^ ^^^^^ Everything can be done, I assume, but I'm pretty sure that it would be much cheaper to get a new crank, or indeed a S/H reground crank. Egi; /html/triumphs/1995-09/msg00532.html (8,051 bytes)
49. Re: In search of the death rattle (long) (score: 1): Author: egilk@oslonett.no (Egil Kvaleberg); Date: Sun, 01 Oct 1995 10:39:18 +0200; No need to be concerned, this is exactly as it should be, and your assumption is correct. What you should be worried about, is radial slack. Little end wear is normally not a trouble spot on these en; /html/triumphs/1995-10/msg00002.html (9,481 bytes)
50. Re: clouds of blue smoke (score: 1): Author: egilk@oslonett.no (Egil Kvaleberg); Date: Wed, 04 Oct 1995 01:47:37 +0200; When you let off the throttle at high speed, you create a *huge* vacuum in the inlet. This will suck oil down through the inlet valve guides. Most likely. IMHO, you could decide to live with slightly; /html/triumphs/1995-10/msg00083.html (8,210 bytes)
51. Re: In search of the death rattle (score: 1): Author: egilk@oslonett.no (Egil Kvaleberg); Date: Wed, 04 Oct 1995 11:32:07 +0200; Not IMHO. "Death rattle" is from the bug end bearings, before the oil pressure is present. And there is definitely no hydraulic tensioner on *my* Triumph, just a fairly crude sprig affair (which seem; /html/triumphs/1995-10/msg00089.html (8,180 bytes)
52. Re: spitfire engine rebuild questions (score: 1): Author: egilk@oslonett.no (Egil Kvaleberg); Date: Wed, 18 Oct 1995 07:48:24 +0200; As explained below, the rings may be shot. Perhaps the bores are worn too much also. If possible, do a compression check on it. If any of the cylinders are low, and improve significantly with a teasp; /html/triumphs/1995-10/msg00286.html (9,156 bytes)
53. re: Spitfire brake tools (score: 1): Author: egilk@oslonett.no (Egil Kvaleberg); Date: Mon, 23 Oct 1995 15:04:34 +0200; Gunson, the people who make the Colourtune, also make a simple and very efficient pressure bleeder. It has an extra brake fluid tank, so that the fluid bled from the reservoir will be replaced. As a; /html/triumphs/1995-10/msg00329.html (7,914 bytes)
54. Re: Return of the unleaded thread (score: 1): Author: egilk@oslonett.no (Egil Kvaleberg); Date: Mon, 23 Oct 1995 14:38:08 +0200; After approx. the same mileage on very low lead and lead-ersatz petrol, the exhaust valve seats on my 150bhp 2.5 PI were pretty well burnt, to the extent that one exhaust valve har a crack in it. The; /html/triumphs/1995-10/msg00330.html (9,976 bytes)
55. Re: GT6 tuning help needed (score: 1): Author: egilk@oslonett.no (Egil Kvaleberg); Date: Mon, 23 Oct 1995 22:06:29 +0200; ... All your clues (light blue, crappy when cold, backfiring, white plugs) all *clearly* point in one direction: The mixture is too lean. Are you sure you've got the correct needles? Compare them to; /html/triumphs/1995-10/msg00346.html (9,456 bytes)
56. Re: Return of the unleaded thread (score: 1): Author: egilk@oslonett.no (Egil Kvaleberg); Date: Wed, 25 Oct 1995 10:29:20 +0200; I check/reset the clearances once a year - they should be OK. Regretfully, I never made a note of which way the clearances went, however. I distinctly remember *some* of them increasing due to rocker; /html/triumphs/1995-10/msg00377.html (9,956 bytes)
57. Re: Return of the unleaded thread (score: 1): Author: egilk@oslonett.no (Egil Kvaleberg); Date: Sun, 05 Nov 1995 08:48:47 +0100; The voltmeter consists of a bimetallic spring connected to the "hand", just like an ordinary thermometer. In addition, there is a heating coil wound around it, made of resistance wire. The higher the; /html/triumphs/1995-11/msg00164.html (8,814 bytes)
58. Re: Thanks and help again (score: 1): Author: egilk@oslonett.no (Egil Kvaleberg); Date: Mon, 06 Nov 1995 10:42:09 +0100; In Norwegian we have a nickname for those "easy out" things. For the benefit of the "family" profile of this list, I will not reveal which part of the male pig anatomy which this nickname refers to :; /html/triumphs/1995-11/msg00181.html (8,399 bytes)
59. Re: Headlamps (score: 1): Author: egilk@oslonett.no (Egil Kvaleberg); Date: Mon, 06 Nov 1995 10:05:56 +0100; First of all, I would have checked a couple of things: 1. First of all, check the voltage drop. Park the car with the headlights on, and measure the voltage across the actual bulb terminals (you migh; /html/triumphs/1995-11/msg00182.html (10,546 bytes)
60. Re: Headlamps (score: 1): Author: egilk@oslonett.no (Egil Kvaleberg); Date: Mon, 06 Nov 1995 17:30:48 +0100; If you *can* change bulbs, you don't have a sealed beam unit. If the glass is marked H4, the units are meant for halogen bulbs. DO check the voltage drop, by the way. Egil -- Email: egilk@oslonett.no; /html/triumphs/1995-11/msg00196.html (7,861 bytes)

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