- 1. Re: Surrey top on Spit Mk1 (score: 1)
- Author: AMfoto1@aol.com
- Date: Fri, 3 Dec 2004 16:14:04 EST
- Hi Joe, I'd think the easiest way to set up a surrey-style top for a Spitfire might be to get an after-market fiberglass top intended for a Spit and modify it into a two piece arrangement. Fiberglass
- /html/triumphs/2004-12/msg00845.html (8,132 bytes)
- 2. Re: Heater Core (score: 1)
- Author: AMfoto1@aol.com
- Date: Mon, 6 Dec 2004 19:45:50 EST
- Hi John, I agree with Dave. Just take it to a radiator shop and have them check it out and pressure test it. Much easier than reinstalling it, "hoping for the best" and finding out later it has a pro
- /html/triumphs/2004-12/msg00955.html (8,468 bytes)
- 3. Re: Fly-off Handbrake (score: 1)
- Author: AMfoto1@aol.com
- Date: Tue, 7 Dec 2004 06:00:29 EST
- Hi Chris, Yes, the fly-off handbrake can be used for some pretty fancy driving. I recall on one our first dates, giving my ex-wife a bit of a thrill with a 180 degree "parking maneuver". She married
- /html/triumphs/2004-12/msg00972.html (8,762 bytes)
- 4. Re: mig welders (score: 1)
- Author: AMfoto1@aol.com
- Date: Tue, 7 Dec 2004 06:31:56 EST
- Hi Frank, I've been considering a MIG welder too, and have been gathering info for a while. What I've learned is similar to the other response you got already: flux core is generally not as neat as g
- /html/triumphs/2004-12/msg00974.html (9,322 bytes)
- 5. Subject: Request for recommendations... Roll bar. (score: 1)
- Author: AMfoto1@aol.com
- Date: Wed, 15 Dec 2004 21:00:04 EST
- Hi Jim, Most of the roll bars you see in catalogs are better called "street bars". These provide minimal protection in the event of an actual roll over and are mostly for show. They bolt to the rear
- /html/triumphs/2004-12/msg01155.html (9,189 bytes)
- 6. Re: Spares! (was: TR3 ignition mystery demystified) (score: 1)
- Author: AMfoto1@aol.com
- Date: Wed, 15 Dec 2004 21:07:16 EST
- Hi all, I've heard reference to the "drooping rear" of some TR models, and how others "squat" when you jump on the gas pedal. Hey, maybe these characteristics are due to all the spares most of us hau
- /html/triumphs/2004-12/msg01156.html (6,955 bytes)
- 7. Re: lower trunnion (score: 1)
- Author: AMfoto1@aol.com
- Date: Mon, 20 Dec 2004 06:12:17 EST
- Hi Tony, The vertical link has a large acme threaded screw on the bottom that is threaded into a socket on the horizontal trunnion. Before you disassemble anything, take a careful measurement from th
- /html/triumphs/2004-12/msg01293.html (9,039 bytes)
- 8. Re: lower trunion (score: 1)
- Author: AMfoto1@aol.com
- Date: Thu, 23 Dec 2004 18:24:45 EST
- Hi Dave, No, on TR4s both the vertical links and trunnions are right-hand threaded. But, I need to correct one thing in Carl's response. Only very early TR4s up to CT6343, steel wheel/CT6339, wire wh
- /html/triumphs/2004-12/msg01376.html (8,231 bytes)
- 9. Re: Weird TR250 hard top (score: 1)
- Author: AMfoto1@aol.com
- Date: Tue, 28 Dec 2004 17:16:06 EST
- Hello Kai, I agree with you. IMHO, that's not the most attractive top! There are more pictures of it on eBay, including some interior shots. See ended auction item #4514302375. It didn't reach the re
- /html/triumphs/2004-12/msg01441.html (8,847 bytes)
- 10. Re:u-joints (score: 1)
- Author: AMfoto1@aol.com
- Date: Wed, 29 Dec 2004 20:16:30 EST
- Excellent advice, Carl! Also it is very important to replace those Nylok nuts with new, at the very least. When I removed my drive shaft a while ago, I found reused Nylok nuts and didn't need a wrenc
- /html/triumphs/2004-12/msg01473.html (8,686 bytes)
- 11. TR4 or 4A bumper brackets? (score: 1)
- Author: AMfoto1@aol.com
- Date: Thu, 30 Dec 2004 05:33:03 EST
- Hi all, Was someone here looking for TR4 or TR4A bumper brackets? If so, which was it and have you gotten a set yet? If TR4 and you still need them, please contact me directly, I think I have a spare
- /html/triumphs/2004-12/msg01476.html (6,645 bytes)
- 12. Re: TR3 Wiper Motor Mounting Kit (score: 1)
- Author: AMfoto1@aol.com
- Date: Fri, 31 Dec 2004 16:44:40 EST
- Hi Bill, Don't slice up those rubber grommets. They are a tight fit, but work at it and you can get them into the holes. If you need to, use a little WD40 or even dish washing soap to help them slide
- /html/triumphs/2004-12/msg01512.html (8,733 bytes)
- 13. Re: TR5 Stainless Steel Suspension Bolts and Wing Beading Strips (score: 1)
- Author: AMfoto1@aol.com
- Date: Tue, 16 Nov 2004 04:31:52 EST
- Hi Mike, Since these are such critical parts, my vote is to definitely not use stainless steel hardware the key suspension parts. S.S. hardware is not strong enough. Use good Grade 8 or Aircraft Grad
- /html/triumphs/2004-11/msg00862.html (8,737 bytes)
- 14. Re: Rear Suspension; TR4 solid axle cars sitting high in rear (score: 1)
- Author: AMfoto1@aol.com
- Date: Wed, 17 Nov 2004 01:58:25 EST
- Hi Jeffrey, I would be interested to know your source of U-bolts. I'm doing something similar with a series of 1/4" thick aluminum plates, so that the ride height can be adjusted on my car. Initially
- /html/triumphs/2004-11/msg00887.html (9,454 bytes)
- 15. Re: Wiper's carbon blocks-which way grooves go? (score: 1)
- Author: AMfoto1@aol.com
- Date: Thu, 25 Nov 2004 20:25:56 EST
- Hi Carl, I just disassembled a TR4 1-speed wiper motor that appeared to never have been apart. Just the opposite of what you wrote. The grooves in the brushes are installed at right angle or perpendi
- /html/triumphs/2004-11/msg01015.html (9,194 bytes)
- 16. Re: tr3 breather pipe (score: 1)
- Author: AMfoto1@aol.com
- Date: Sat, 27 Nov 2004 20:16:03 EST
- Hi Larry, Your crankcase needs to breath to equalize pressure and emit fumes that can build up in the engine. Modern cars have closed circuits with PCV valves and other arrangements. Older cars simpl
- /html/triumphs/2004-11/msg01052.html (9,671 bytes)
- 17. Re: Annual TR3 Heater Rant (score: 1)
- Author: AMfoto1@aol.com
- Date: Wed, 14 Dec 2005 17:18:37 EST
- My best suggestion... move to S. California. ;-) Sorry... Alan Myers San Jose (Northern) California '62 TR4 CT17602L www.triumphowners.com/640 ** Does anyone have a way to get these cars warm in the
- /html/triumphs/2005-12/msg00331.html (6,993 bytes)
- 18. Re: Rear Hub Puller - Churchhill copy (score: 1)
- Author: AMfoto1@aol.com
- Date: Thu, 15 Dec 2005 16:00:25 EST
- Hi Allen, Hammering like this should *only* be done after the axle is removed from the axle tube. The various manuals and books very carefully warn against hammering on the end of the axle while it's
- /html/triumphs/2005-12/msg00379.html (8,053 bytes)
- 19. Re: caliper brake piston rust prevention (score: 1)
- Author: AMfoto1@aol.com
- Date: Thu, 15 Dec 2005 16:28:27 EST
- Hi Paul, Frankly, even though it's tough stuff, I'm not sure how POR15 will react over time to brake fluid. So, no, I wouldn't put any sort of paint inside a hydraulic circuit. There is simply too mu
- /html/triumphs/2005-12/msg00381.html (9,919 bytes)
- 20. Re: TR4 Diecast Model (score: 1)
- Author: AMfoto1@aol.com
- Date: Thu, 15 Dec 2005 16:41:06 EST
- Hi Kurtis, Did you notice the engine is fitted with Weber DCOEs? I'm sure that's because the same company offers a TR4 model in factory rally trim including driving/fog lights and hard top: http://ww
- /html/triumphs/2005-12/msg00382.html (7,313 bytes)
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