Mail Archive Search: <+from:AMfoto1@aol.com>

Results:

References: [ +from:AMfoto1@aol.com: 200 ]

Total 200 documents matching your query.

81. Re: Stainless Steel Racing Valves (score: 1): Author: AMfoto1@aol.com; Date: Mon, 9 May 2005 19:06:22 EDT; Try Ken at British Frame & Engine. (www.britishframeandengine.com) I know Moss offers a limited selection of sizes for the 4 cylinder cars, perhaps for the 6 cyl. too. However, Ken is more inclined; /html/triumphs/2005-05/msg00230.html (6,837 bytes)
82. Re: TR4 Driving/Fog Lamps (score: 1): Author: AMfoto1@aol.com; Date: Mon, 9 May 2005 19:32:18 EDT; Hi John, I have a pair of Hellas mounted on top my TR4's bumper, in place of the overriders. These lamps allow a lot of tilt adjustment to compensate for the angle of the bumper. Not sure whether or; /html/triumphs/2005-05/msg00232.html (8,968 bytes)
83. Re: TR3A Caliper brake rebuild (score: 1): Author: AMfoto1@aol.com; Date: Wed, 11 May 2005 05:29:05 EDT; Hi Paul, Your outline of the procedure is correct. The steel clip isn't used on your calipers, assuming they are original to your car. Most of those kits are supplied to service the calipers on all y; /html/triumphs/2005-05/msg00265.html (8,522 bytes)
84. Re: speedbleeders for TR4A (score: 1): Author: AMfoto1@aol.com; Date: Wed, 11 May 2005 16:22:01 EDT; I bought Russell Speed Bleeders for $9.88 a pair from www.summitracing.com You need 3/8" x 24 size. They are available in two sizes: 1" or 1.5" overall length. Alan Myers San Jose, Calif. '62 TR4 CT; /html/triumphs/2005-05/msg00286.html (6,350 bytes)
85. RE: floor jacks (score: 1): Author: AMfoto1@aol.com; Date: Thu, 12 May 2005 19:04:12 EDT; Hi Tom, I've got a 2-3/4 ton "Torin - Big Red", el-cheapo, made-in-China floor jack, which was bought dirt cheap from a local auto parts store, probably Kragen (aka Checkers, etc.). I needed a larger; /html/triumphs/2005-05/msg00328.html (9,222 bytes)
86. Re: Tr4 Clutch taper pin (score: 1): Author: AMfoto1@aol.com; Date: Fri, 13 May 2005 20:06:47 EDT; Hi Sam, An all-too-common problem! Drill a hole through the fork and shaft from the opposite side, then use a pin punch to drive the remains of the taper pin out. Tilt the fork/shaft as far as possib; /html/triumphs/2005-05/msg00350.html (7,549 bytes)
87. Re: TR3 Breather Pipe v TR4 Plug (score: 1): Author: AMfoto1@aol.com; Date: Fri, 20 May 2005 01:14:17 EDT; Hi Geo, Well, the early-TR4/TR3 type of open air crankcase breather tube works fine, so long as you don't object to "British undercoating". I don't want to pop your balloon, but thanks to that vent t; /html/triumphs/2005-05/msg00485.html (9,194 bytes)
88. Re: Cost for modifying 240Z brake drums (score: 1): Author: AMfoto1@aol.com; Date: Fri, 20 May 2005 01:57:55 EDT; Hi Dean, I got an even higher machining quote, not surprising since it was the same shop that charged me $80 to press in two trunnion bushings and ream them (too much, I might add). Figured I'd have; /html/triumphs/2005-05/msg00486.html (9,475 bytes)
89. Re: liners and pistons tr3 (score: 1): Author: AMfoto1@aol.com; Date: Fri, 20 May 2005 02:18:03 EDT; Hi Randy, I personally have no experience with County brand pistons and liners. In my limited experience, AE Hepolites are the best of the more commonly available TR2/3/4/4A replacement sets, but are; /html/triumphs/2005-05/msg00487.html (7,644 bytes)
90. Re: TR drivetrain for sale with website \ Identification Help (score: 1): Author: AMfoto1@aol.com; Date: Fri, 20 May 2005 17:02:33 EDT; Hi Jeffrey, Looks like a bit of a mix and match setup. 1st clue is that it was in an MG! That's definitely a late TR4A engine number. So, at least the bottom half is about 1966-67 vintage. It also ha; /html/triumphs/2005-05/msg00508.html (9,261 bytes)
91. Re: No Good Deed... (score: 1): Author: AMfoto1@aol.com; Date: Mon, 23 May 2005 20:59:21 EDT; Hi Bill, The Dixon show was excellent and my only regret is that we got there so late... about 3 pm (Other commitments, including the San Jose Street Rod show, before making the 2+ hr. trek to Dixon); /html/triumphs/2005-05/msg00627.html (7,625 bytes)
92. Re: Electric fans & amperage (score: 1): Author: AMfoto1@aol.com; Date: Tue, 24 May 2005 15:19:49 EDT; Good point! And one many folks don't think about until they find their headlights look more like fireflies every time the fan kicks on at night! The typical original 22 amp TR6 alternator would have; /html/triumphs/2005-05/msg00672.html (8,640 bytes)
93. Re: TR4 Hardtop (score: 1): Author: AMfoto1@aol.com; Date: Wed, 25 May 2005 20:53:18 EDT; Hi Craig, I looked at that top and it does appear to be sitting too far rearward. The photos are cropped in such a way that the leading edge can't quite be seen clearly. That's the key... if it's not; /html/triumphs/2005-05/msg00715.html (7,729 bytes)
94. Re: door rattling: easy fix (score: 1): Author: AMfoto1@aol.com; Date: Thu, 26 May 2005 19:28:16 EDT; Hey Steven, I thot you told the boss you'd eBay off all the spares that came with that new/old TR4 and reassured her that would go a long way toward recouping your investment? Sounds like those spare; /html/triumphs/2005-05/msg00774.html (6,846 bytes)
95. Re: TR4 Hartop (score: 1): Author: AMfoto1@aol.com; Date: Thu, 26 May 2005 20:32:41 EDT; Hi again Craig, Try www.smoothline.com (I have to credit john, in MA who emailed me with clues to find the website!) Looks like the same top. Maybe they offer replacement windows. One key difference; /html/triumphs/2005-05/msg00789.html (7,979 bytes)
96. Re: aluminum brake drums (score: 1): Author: AMfoto1@aol.com; Date: Sun, 29 May 2005 03:06:51 EDT; Hi Al, I just got a set from TRF a few weeks ago. You might give them a try. Cheers! Alan Myers San Jose, Calif. '62 TR4 CT17602L ** I just got a note from Autopartsgiant.com. They just canceled my o; /html/triumphs/2005-05/msg00879.html (6,366 bytes)
97. Re: Door weatherstrip adhesive (score: 1): Author: AMfoto1@aol.com; Date: Mon, 4 Apr 2005 20:52:05 EDT; Hi Cameron, Last time I looked, 3M made a specific Weatherstrip Adhesive that's probably the best for the job. It is usually found in auto body supply shops. Sometimes well-stocked auto parts stores; /html/triumphs/2005-04/msg00095.html (7,712 bytes)
98. Re: wheel bearings (score: 1): Author: AMfoto1@aol.com; Date: Fri, 8 Apr 2005 21:03:18 EDT; Hi Ronnie, Reading your question, one thing occured to me... Have you ever replaced the felt grease seals at the back of the hub? I ask because all of them that I've seen coming from the major TR ven; /html/triumphs/2005-04/msg00217.html (8,171 bytes)
99. Re: Tie rod removal (score: 1): Author: AMfoto1@aol.com; Date: Mon, 11 Apr 2005 17:18:29 EDT; Hi Jack, I've been using JC Whitney item #ZX881770B for tie rod ends and ball joints. Cheap, simple, works great, highly recommended. No beating required. Over the years, at one time or another, I've; /html/triumphs/2005-04/msg00273.html (7,238 bytes)
100. Re: Upper Fulcrum (score: 1): Author: AMfoto1@aol.com; Date: Fri, 15 Apr 2005 17:21:35 EDT; Hi Jack, Technically, you should replace the fulcrums to help the new bushings last as long as possible and be sure play in the joint is minimized. The wear on the pins is due to dirt and water splas; /html/triumphs/2005-04/msg00415.html (9,926 bytes)

Current List: 81 - 100
Page: [1] [2] [3] [4] [5] [6] [7] [8] [9] [10]