- 1. TR rubber seals question (score: 1)
- Author: "Dave Willner" <dwillner@icontech.com>
- Date: Tue, 28 Jan 2003 08:47:36 -0500
- When I purchased my Spitfire this past October I changed all the fluids and rebuilt the MCs and the clutch slave unit. The manuals, caps, spec sheets, etc. all say to use DOT 3. The majority (if not
- /html/spitfires/2003-01/msg00224.html (7,871 bytes)
- 2. RE: TR rubber seals question (score: 1)
- Author: "Craig Smith" <csmith1@awcwire.com>
- Date: Tue, 28 Jan 2003 08:55:10 -0500
- Here we go again! Let me start with this. I have been using DOT 5 in my 71 Spit for over three years, I haven't added fluid or rebuilt ANYTHING. DOT 5 is silicone, it will not eat paint, the boiling
- /html/spitfires/2003-01/msg00225.html (8,552 bytes)
- 3. RE: TR rubber seals question (score: 1)
- Author: Terry Thompson <firespiter@yahoo.com>
- Date: Tue, 28 Jan 2003 15:50:00 -0800 (PST)
- I agree with Craig. Silicone is expensive ($8 pint?) and a bit of a task (a weekend job), but well worth the time and investment. No peeling paint, no topping off (does LMA evaporate or something?) a
- /html/spitfires/2003-01/msg00227.html (7,330 bytes)
- 4. Re: TR rubber seals question (score: 1)
- Author: "Jeff McNeal" <jmcneal@ohms.com>
- Date: Tue, 28 Jan 2003 16:32:08 -0800
- I'll third the motion. Silicone DOT 5 awesome. DOT 4 (or DOT 3 when incorrectly applied) will let loose and not only eat the paint on your upper bulkhead, but it usually drips onto the footwells, too
- /html/spitfires/2003-01/msg00228.html (8,505 bytes)
- 5. Re: TR rubber seals question (score: 1)
- Author: Donald H Locker <dhl@chelseamsl.com>
- Date: Tue, 28 Jan 2003 22:14:56 -0500 (EST)
- If you do decide to use silicone, wash and flush the system with denatured alcohol (methylated spirits), dry thoroughly with [preferably] dry nitrogen, or [as I did] vacuuming from the wheel cylinder
- /html/spitfires/2003-01/msg00229.html (8,167 bytes)
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