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41. LPG torches (score: 1): Author: "Douglas E. Shook" <dshook@usc.edu>; Date: Tue, 01 Jul 1997 18:10:50 -0400; Shop Talkers, I'm sure that some of you have been doing this for years, but I just now figured it out. I was tired of running out of propane cylinders for the torch everytime I needed one, and I felt; /html/shop-talk/1997-07/msg00016.html (6,803 bytes)
42. Re: Automotive cooling (score: 1): Author: "Douglas E. Shook" <dshook@usc.edu>; Date: Thu, 31 Jul 1997 22:03:45 -0400; I'm not a mechanical engineer, but hopefully am no dummy either, and have been building English car and bike engines for 22 years (some for racing). I would need to actually put thermometers in a fe; /html/shop-talk/1997-07/msg00094.html (9,515 bytes)
43. Re: air compressors (score: 1): Author: "Douglas E. Shook" <dshook@usc.edu>; Date: Thu, 05 Jun 1997 09:05:35 -0400; Matt, This is another case where bigger is almost always better, but you can spend from $150 to $3,000 very easily. I'm a British bike, British car, homeowner type of guy, so I use my compressor most; /html/shop-talk/1997-06/msg00006.html (9,577 bytes)
44. copper pipe and compressors (score: 1): Author: "Douglas E. Shook" <dshook@usc.edu>; Date: Fri, 06 Jun 1997 17:21:39 -0400; I apologize, as I know this has been around the track dozens of times, but I recently had an idea (a very rare occurrence for me), and need some advice. I was thinking about using 1/2 or 3/4 inch cop; /html/shop-talk/1997-06/msg00012.html (7,942 bytes)
45. Re: copper pipe and compressors (score: 1): Author: "Douglas E. Shook" <dshook@usc.edu>; Date: Fri, 06 Jun 1997 18:41:18 -0400; Chuck, Thanks for your feedback--regarding the serpentine vs. parallel approach, I guess I was thinking that with the parallel approach, the air would spend the same time in the "cooler" either way--; /html/shop-talk/1997-06/msg00014.html (8,529 bytes)
46. Air compressor "intercooler" (score: 1): Author: "Douglas E. Shook" <dshook@usc.edu>; Date: Fri, 13 Jun 1997 19:13:43 -0400; Shop Talkers, You may recall that I ventured forth an idea about using 3/4" copper pipe and a bunch of T's to create a "radiator" for my air compressor feed line from the pump before it enters the ta; /html/shop-talk/1997-06/msg00037.html (7,421 bytes)
47. Air compressor "radiator"--the final installment (score: 1): Author: "Douglas E. Shook" <dshook@usc.edu>; Date: Sun, 15 Jun 1997 18:35:45 -0400; Shop Talkers, Well, you are probably thinking, thank goodness, but the never-ending air compressor experiments are now finished. Thank all of you who wisely suggested higher temperature solder, brazi; /html/shop-talk/1997-06/msg00042.html (8,637 bytes)
48. Pressure Blasters and TIP (score: 1): Author: "Douglas E. Shook" <dshook@usc.edu>; Date: Sun, 29 Jun 1997 21:17:30 -0400; Shop Talk, I can't remember now who posted the message about TIP and their pressure blasters/blast cabinets, but I do thank you. A couple weeks ago I bought one of their "38 Special" pressure blaster; /html/shop-talk/1997-06/msg00075.html (7,128 bytes)
49. Re: blast cabinets (score: 1): Author: "Douglas E. Shook" <dshook@usc.edu>; Date: Mon, 05 May 1997 08:00:22 -0400; I've been to Monterrey Mexico for a couple weeks and have missed the preceding discussion on blast cabinets. I'm interested in the TIP one, but am curious as to the: - CFM requirements (I have a 6HP; /html/shop-talk/1997-05/msg00018.html (6,727 bytes)
50. Re: 220v circuit in garage (score: 1): Author: "Douglas E. Shook" <dshook@usc.edu>; Date: Thu, 08 May 1997 23:58:15 -0400; You cannot argue with the "more is better" argument, but 100 amp service requires #1/0 wire, and 200 amp requires #3/0. This cable is not cheap, is a hassle to work, requires major conduit, and gives; /html/shop-talk/1997-05/msg00030.html (9,505 bytes)
51. Re: 25W tubes? (score: 1): Author: "Douglas E. Shook" <dshook@usc.edu>; Date: Fri, 09 May 1997 09:37:08 -0400; Lee, Hi, I see you have also have a 74 TR6--great choice. My rather simple minded comment about the 40 vs. 25 watt tubes was just in reference to the 25 watt shop light tubes that GE now is selling.; /html/shop-talk/1997-05/msg00035.html (8,026 bytes)
52. [Fwd: Re: 220v circuit in garage] (score: 1): Author: "Douglas E. Shook" <dshook@usc.edu>; Date: Fri, 09 May 1997 23:21:31 -0400; This is a multi-part message in MIME format. --112679861271 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit --112679861271 Content-Type: message/rfc822 Content-Transfer-Enc; /html/shop-talk/1997-05/msg00045.html (10,123 bytes)
53. garage wiring (score: 1): Author: "Douglas E. Shook" <dshook@usc.edu>; Date: Tue, 13 May 1997 21:48:34 -0400; I just looked at today's Homebase ad here in LA as to wiring sizes and prices--assuming we have a 100 foot run (not hard by the time you run it from the panel down to the crawl space, down a few fee; /html/shop-talk/1997-05/msg00064.html (7,328 bytes)
54. Torch or MIG (score: 1): Author: "Douglas E. Shook" <dshook@usc.edu>; Date: Sat, 19 Apr 1997 13:36:39 -0400; Hi, I'm brand new to this group, and I know you must have had this discussion a million times, but I need some very basic advice on what I should do regarding welding. I have mostly old English (Triu; /html/shop-talk/1997-04/msg00029.html (7,586 bytes)
55. Re: Torch or MIG (score: 1): Author: "Douglas E. Shook" <dshook@usc.edu>; Date: Sun, 20 Apr 1997 08:33:35 -0400; Thanks for the advice/info. Cutting steel (thick steel) is not an issue for me, and ease of welding (lack of skill?) is probably the biggest issue for me. I'll take your advice and buy a MIG. I only; /html/shop-talk/1997-04/msg00030.html (7,626 bytes)

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