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Total 471 documents matching your query.

161. RE: parts washer (score: 1)
Author: "Randall Young" <ryoung@navcomtech.com>
Date: Mon, 14 Apr 2003 15:44:59 -0700
Sounds like "Biodiesel B100" is what you want to look for (B20 is 80% conventional diesel fuel, while B100 is 100% methyl soyate). Here's a web site with a list of retail refueling stations that sel
/html/shop-talk/2003-04/msg00047.html (7,912 bytes)

162. RE: Favorite blend of windshield washer fluid? (score: 1)
Author: "Randall Young" <Ryoung@navcomtech.com>
Date: Thu, 17 Apr 2003 15:42:35 -0700
Ammonia will supposedly discolor some paint. I've not seen it, but I'd rather not take the chance. I just wait for the "blue juice" to be on sale, $1 worth lasts me a long time. Randall /// unsubscr
/html/shop-talk/2003-04/msg00068.html (7,628 bytes)

163. RE: need press-off switch (score: 1)
Author: "Randall Young" <Ryoung@navcomtech.com>
Date: Sun, 20 Apr 2003 14:27:45 -0700
As someone already suggested, there are all sorts of hidden switches for alarm systems. But you're quite right, they won't handle much current. My suggestion would be a relay. RS has one listed with
/html/shop-talk/2003-04/msg00079.html (8,677 bytes)

164. RE: New toy - IR 2135Ti and a couple questions. (score: 1)
Author: "Randall Young" <ryoung@navcomtech.com>
Date: Mon, 21 Apr 2003 11:09:33 -0700
They still are, but IMO the quality has dropped noticeably over the last 30 years. Their newer sockets are much thicker than the old ones were, meaning they won't fit in some places that the old one
/html/shop-talk/2003-04/msg00090.html (9,127 bytes)

165. RE: cooling system pressure test (score: 1)
Author: "Randall Young" <ryoung@navcomtech.com>
Date: Mon, 21 Apr 2003 15:01:18 -0700
On my TR3A, I took out the plug where the heater valve goes, and installed a plumbing tee with a fitting on one side for my vacuum gauge (which reads to 10psi pressure), and a Schrader valve on the
/html/shop-talk/2003-04/msg00096.html (7,869 bytes)

166. RE: Chuck key for chinese 3/4" drill chuck? (score: 1)
Author: "Randall Young" <ryoung@navcomtech.com>
Date: Tue, 22 Apr 2003 09:09:07 -0700
Did you try contacting their customer service department, and ordering a replacement key for their drill press ? They carry (or can get) many service parts that are not listed in the catalogs. You m
/html/shop-talk/2003-04/msg00110.html (7,974 bytes)

167. RE: Headligght Adjustment (score: 1)
Author: "Randall Young" <Ryoung@navcomtech.com>
Date: Sun, 2 Mar 2003 15:49:07 -0800
The formula my Dad taught me, and I've always used, is that the "hot spot" of the high beam should be straight and level. Thus at 25 feet, it would be the same height as the lamp, and straight ahead
/html/shop-talk/2003-03/msg00002.html (8,098 bytes)

168. RE: Breaking off a tap?! (score: 1)
Author: Randall Young <ryoung@navcomtech.com>
Date: Wed, 5 Mar 2003 15:38:01 -0800
Chris, I beg to differ. The difference between taper, plug and bottoming taps is only how long the taper at the beginning of the tap is. A bottoming tap has only 1-2 partial threads, a plug tap has
/html/shop-talk/2003-03/msg00034.html (10,499 bytes)

169. RE: What kind of screw is this? (score: 1)
Author: "Randall Young" <Ryoung@navcomtech.com>
Date: Wed, 5 Mar 2003 21:56:27 -0800
Sounds like Dremel time to me ! Use the abrasive cutoff wheel to cut a slot in the screw head, and take it out with an ordinary screwdriver. If you don't already have one, Lowe's oughta have the che
/html/shop-talk/2003-03/msg00041.html (8,532 bytes)

170. RE: Breaking off a tap?! (score: 1)
Author: Randall Young <ryoung@navcomtech.com>
Date: Thu, 6 Mar 2003 12:27:06 -0800
I've seen exactly one of those sets in my life, my grandfather got them from his father. I believe they were made around 1915. Fitted wooden box (cracked in several places), adjustable square dies,
/html/shop-talk/2003-03/msg00049.html (8,684 bytes)

171. RE: Jb weld (score: 1)
Author: "Randall Young" <Ryoung@navcomtech.com>
Date: Mon, 10 Mar 2003 09:35:06 -0800
I believe it's exactly on-topic here. JB Weld will take threads, but they aren't very strong. However, I'd be surprised if you can tap a hole that is half in aluminum and half in JB Weld. Since the
/html/shop-talk/2003-03/msg00069.html (9,028 bytes)

172. RE: Two items (HVAC Ducting and follup to Screws) (score: 1)
Author: Randall Young <ryoung@navcomtech.com>
Date: Tue, 18 Mar 2003 11:33:12 -0800
Oddly enough, my home here in SoCA has the vents in the interior walls, with short vertical ducts inside the walls to the attic. Was never equipped with central A/C, and of course for best heat dist
/html/shop-talk/2003-03/msg00091.html (9,804 bytes)

173. RE: 1987 VW Cabriolet turn signal problem (score: 1)
Author: Randall Young <ryoung@navcomtech.com>
Date: Wed, 19 Mar 2003 20:36:58 -0800
I would suggest a Haynes or Chilton's manual, with a wiring diagram. Very few cars use the same flasher for the turn signals and hazards; among other things they are usually powered different becaus
/html/shop-talk/2003-03/msg00119.html (7,883 bytes)

174. Purolator regulator recall (score: 1)
Author: Randall Young <ryoung@navcomtech.com>
Date: Thu, 27 Mar 2003 21:04:53 -0800
If you've recently installed a Purolator or NAPA fuel-pressure regulator, you might be interested in this : http://www.safetyalerts.com/recall/a/02/v00400.htm Apparently, the diaphragm breaks down an
/html/shop-talk/2003-03/msg00139.html (6,805 bytes)

175. RE: slightly OT: hitch ball ? (score: 1)
Author: "Randall Young" <Ryoung@navcomtech.com>
Date: Fri, 28 Mar 2003 07:26:07 -0800
I've always run mine dry, but if you wanted to lubricate, a little dry lubricant (like MoS2) should do. Note that many trailers come using the ball for the ground for the lights. IMO it's worth addi
/html/shop-talk/2003-03/msg00141.html (8,346 bytes)

176. RE: slightly OT: hitch ball ? (score: 1)
Author: Randall Young <ryoung@navcomtech.com>
Date: Fri, 28 Mar 2003 15:52:45 -0800
That's because I don't know that it is better. My thoughts are that some resistance in that coupling may actually help with trailer sway (which might be why I've never felt that anti-sway devices ar
/html/shop-talk/2003-03/msg00154.html (8,886 bytes)

177. RE: Strange Stripper Advise... Is this for real? (score: 1)
Author: "Randall Young" <Ryoung@navcomtech.com>
Date: Sat, 1 Feb 2003 00:05:44 -0800
I have seen it used, it does work. Not as well as commercial stripper (methylene chloride), IMO, and far nastier (removes skin just about as well as paint), but certainly cheap. OTOH you're going to
/html/shop-talk/2003-02/msg00000.html (6,804 bytes)

178. RE: air regulators (score: 1)
Author: "Randall Young" <Ryoung@navcomtech.com>
Date: Sat, 8 Feb 2003 08:06:39 -0800
John, that is an excellent point. One way to check is to put a pressure gage after the regulator, and look at how it behaves under maximum flow. The regulator that came with my el cheapo (Sanborn "B
/html/shop-talk/2003-02/msg00013.html (8,006 bytes)

179. RE: Electrical problem (score: 1)
Author: "Randall Young" <Ryoung@navcomtech.com>
Date: Tue, 11 Feb 2003 19:08:40 -0800
This would indicate to me that either the standing outlet or the umbilical cord is mis-wired; such that the main circuit breaker (which would only break one side, this being a 110v installation) is
/html/shop-talk/2003-02/msg00022.html (8,596 bytes)

180. RE: question on joists need. (score: 1)
Author: Randall Young <ryoung@navcomtech.com>
Date: Fri, 14 Feb 2003 19:50:20 -0800
Mike, I'm not sure I follow your description and diagram ... but I'm pretty sure those joists are required. Wooden walls are amazingly weak in any direction except straight down, and the weight of t
/html/shop-talk/2003-02/msg00032.html (8,653 bytes)

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