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1. Re: [oletrucks] chat rm (score: 1): Author: "Gramps" <gramps@stlnet.com>; Date: Sat, 12 Feb 2000 15:03:03 -0600; I just saw the other day where there is a real cool chat room that AOL has that someone can put on a web site, the nice thing was that it isn't filled with advertisements like some most of the others; /html/oletrucks/2000-02/msg00374.html (7,541 bytes)
2. [oletrucks] Chatting for Ole Trucks (score: 1): Author: "Gramps" <gramps@stlnet.com>; Date: Sun, 13 Feb 2000 11:59:01 -0600; I have setup the AOL AIM chat room for the members of the Ole Trucks list. You can get there from the following url: http://home.postnet.com/~gramps/ To use the chat room you will need the AOL Instan; /html/oletrucks/2000-02/msg00411.html (6,730 bytes)
3. Re: [oletrucks] Front spring sag (score: 1): Author: "Gramps" <gramps@stlnet.com>; Date: Mon, 8 Nov 1999 22:07:22 -0600; They should have a arch to them. They will straighten out in time. I had a new set made at a local spring shop and it cost me about $170 after I bought new bushings too. I had the front eye reversed; /html/oletrucks/1999-11/msg00217.html (7,602 bytes)
4. Re: [oletrucks] steering box (score: 1): Author: "Gramps" <gramps@stlnet.com>; Date: Mon, 8 Nov 1999 22:15:31 -0600; I used the one the Chevy Duty sells and it works great. No the front whell doesn't rub. It does require some welding and fabracation to get it all to work. IT also requires that the shocks are revers; /html/oletrucks/1999-11/msg00218.html (7,674 bytes)
5. Re: [oletrucks] AD rear end swaps (score: 1): Author: "Gramps" <gramps@stlnet.com>; Date: Tue, 13 Jul 1999 20:50:24 -0500; I put a rearend out of a '68 Nova in my '50. I didn't use the orginal springs I ordered the kit for R&B. It worked out well and the R&B kit is a bolt in replacement. Also lowers the rear about 4 inch; /html/oletrucks/1999-07/msg00342.html (7,611 bytes)
6. Re: [oletrucks] Kingpins and bushings (score: 1): Author: "Gramps" <gramps@stlnet.com>; Date: Wed, 7 Apr 1999 19:27:21 -0500; I had the same problem when I took mine to have them done. The guy told me that the orginals float but when they are replaced it is norma practice to get over size and press them in. The hole in my s; /html/oletrucks/1999-04/msg00178.html (8,195 bytes)
7. Re: [oletrucks] First Questions (score: 1): Author: "Gramps" <gramps@stlnet.com>; Date: Thu, 8 Apr 1999 23:57:16 -0500; I just had my radiator rebuilt on my '50 and the guy at the shop told me to use noting higher than a 7# cap. He said that the old radiators weren't made to hold the preasure that todays radators do.; /html/oletrucks/1999-04/msg00222.html (8,313 bytes)
8. Re: [oletrucks] Removing the axle pins and other sundry questions (score: 1): Author: "Gramps" <gramps@stlnet.com>; Date: Sun, 7 Mar 1999 21:21:15 -0600; After removing the dust caps I soaked mine with penertrating oil for a couple of days. I useed JB Blaster and after a few days and of spraying I was able to drive mine out with a drift. As I recall I; /html/oletrucks/1999-03/msg00342.html (7,815 bytes)
9. Re: [oletrucks] Parking/Headlights (score: 1): Author: "Gramps" <gramps@stlnet.com>; Date: Wed, 10 Feb 1999 19:44:23 -0600; It's not that hard to do and it can be done with the orginal switch. Stop and think, when you pull the parking lights on the lights in the front light and the tail lights light too. When you pull the; /html/oletrucks/1999-02/msg00281.html (9,783 bytes)

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