- 61. RE: Failed MA inspection (score: 1)
- Author: "Steve Shoyer" <Steve@shoyer.com>
- Date: Mon, 31 Mar 2003 16:17:24 -0500
- To be fair to the guy, there was a decent amount of oil flowing onto their garage floor. He might not have noticed a few drips. Then again, when I tried to get out of it by loosening the oil filler c
- /html/mgs/2003-03/msg00840.html (8,901 bytes)
- 62. RE: Rough-running B (score: 1)
- Author: "Steve Shoyer" <Steve@shoyer.com>
- Date: Sat, 8 Feb 2003 14:35:42 -0500
- Has anyone come up with a shield for the distributor so it won't get wet when the valve leaks? --Steve (1980 MGB) You've discovered the BMC patented heater valve leak detector. sieve. /// or try http
- /html/mgs/2003-02/msg00141.html (7,691 bytes)
- 63. RE: Fitted seat covers (score: 1)
- Author: "Steve Shoyer" <Steve@shoyer.com>
- Date: Wed, 22 Jan 2003 10:00:43 -0500
- I've been thinking of replacing my interior (1980 MGB) with the kit from Prestige Auto Trim. The price seems OK ($800 for the kit with leather seat covers, $650 for vinyl). Does anyone have pictures
- /html/mgs/2003-01/msg00507.html (7,671 bytes)
- 64. RE: Looks Like Snow - UGH! (score: 1)
- Author: "Steve Shoyer" <Steve@shoyer.com>
- Date: Wed, 4 Dec 2002 23:34:19 -0500
- I keep trying to finish working on my car between snowstorms. All I had left from replacing the cylinder head was to refill the coolant and oil and set the valve clearances. I did the coolant this mo
- /html/mgs/2002-12/msg00088.html (8,019 bytes)
- 65. Snapped a stud - how screwed am I? (score: 1)
- Author: "Steve Shoyer" <Steve@shoyer.com>
- Date: Thu, 12 Dec 2002 16:53:07 -0500
- All I had left to do to be able to drive my car was to let the car warm up, retorque the head nuts, and reset the valve clearance. I was tightening the nuts when the stud between spark plugs 3 and 4
- /html/mgs/2002-12/msg00301.html (7,687 bytes)
- 66. RE: de-chroming (score: 1)
- Author: "Steve Shoyer" <Steve@shoyer.com>
- Date: Sat, 14 Dec 2002 11:30:31 -0500
- I find it easier to remove the tach and speedo when removing the dashboard, but the other gauges can stay in. They'll need to be disconnected from parts that stay in the car (like the pipe to the oil
- /html/mgs/2002-12/msg00326.html (7,818 bytes)
- 67. Snapped stud - good news (score: 1)
- Author: "Steve Shoyer" <Steve@shoyer.com>
- Date: Sun, 15 Dec 2002 10:15:26 -0500
- I was able to remove the snapped stud without pulling the head. I used a thin screwdriver to back the broken piece out of the block, and then I put some grease on the other part of the stud to pull i
- /html/mgs/2002-12/msg00343.html (6,918 bytes)
- 68. RE: Non-MG request (score: 1)
- Author: "Steve Shoyer" <Steve@shoyer.com>
- Date: Wed, 18 Dec 2002 12:12:32 -0500
- For the Acura manual, try www.helminc.com. It won't be cheap - the 2.2 CL manual is $62. They sell service manuals for a number of manufacturers. They list Acura, Buick, Cadillac, Chevrolet, Ford, GM
- /html/mgs/2002-12/msg00417.html (7,497 bytes)
- 69. Back on the road (score: 1)
- Author: "Steve Shoyer" <Steve@shoyer.com>
- Date: Mon, 30 Dec 2002 15:28:44 -0500
- I replaced the broken head stud and managed to tighten it without snapping it this time, so my car works again. I drove it last night to pick up some take-out food. I still need to replace a lot of t
- /html/mgs/2002-12/msg00614.html (6,997 bytes)
- 70. RE: Lazy Me.... (score: 1)
- Author: "Steve Shoyer" <Steve@shoyer.com>
- Date: Sun, 3 Nov 2002 00:51:33 -0500
- I think the trick is also keeping tension on the cable as the box is reinstalled. I missed this step and now I have to pull the heater again to free the cable. I think I just might wear a heavier coa
- /html/mgs/2002-11/msg00054.html (8,499 bytes)
- 71. Head replacement - cleaning the block (score: 1)
- Author: "Steve Shoyer" <Steve@shoyer.com>
- Date: Mon, 11 Nov 2002 00:37:19 -0500
- My head came back from the machine shop, so I'm ready to reconnect it and try the car again. When I took the head off, I put a light coating of oil on the block and pistons so they wouldn't rust whil
- /html/mgs/2002-11/msg00295.html (7,488 bytes)
- 72. RE: Keys (score: 1)
- Author: "Steve Shoyer" <Steve@shoyer.com>
- Date: Tue, 12 Nov 2002 16:27:54 -0500
- Try pete_groh@yahoo.com, or www.britishcarkeys.com. --Steve (1980 MGB) /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive
- /html/mgs/2002-11/msg00341.html (6,741 bytes)
- 73. RE: Peco from Re: Brit-tek (score: 1)
- Author: "Steve Shoyer" <Steve@shoyer.com>
- Date: Fri, 22 Nov 2002 21:45:54 -0500
- I installed the Peco header and exhaust on my 1980 MGB last year, and while I was pretty confused from looking at the parts without any instructions, it was fairly straightforward to actually put the
- /html/mgs/2002-11/msg00646.html (8,335 bytes)
- 74. Piston question (score: 1)
- Author: "Steve Shoyer" <Steve@shoyer.com>
- Date: Mon, 25 Nov 2002 10:50:07 -0500
- I finally replaced the head on my 1980 MGB yesterday and noticed some markings on the tops of the pistons. There was a "B" stamped in the center of each piston (as well as on the block), and the numb
- /html/mgs/2002-11/msg00702.html (6,845 bytes)
- 75. RE: body shell dolly (score: 1)
- Author: "Steve Shoyer" <Steve@shoyer.com>
- Date: Tue, 26 Nov 2002 08:54:47 -0500
- You could use a rotator, like the one on http://www.mgbexperience.com/rotator/? I couldn't see much of the dolly in the picture, other than the wheels. You could put wheels on the rotator and get the
- /html/mgs/2002-11/msg00732.html (7,069 bytes)
- 76. RE: POR-15 min temperature (score: 1)
- Author: "Steve Shoyer" <Steve@shoyer.com>
- Date: Tue, 1 Oct 2002 10:31:06 -0400
- Their website gives the recommended temperature range as 45-95 F. See http://www.por15.com/faqs/por15faq.html for details. --Steve ... Anyone have a can of POR-15 laying around and could check the la
- /html/mgs/2002-10/msg00014.html (7,188 bytes)
- 77. Vacuum advance and anti run-on connections to intake manifold (score: 1)
- Author: "Steve Shoyer" <Steve@shoyer.com>
- Date: Sun, 6 Oct 2002 23:43:28 -0400
- I'm trying to connect the anti run-on valve and distributor vacuum advance to my intake manifold, but there aren't any pipes to connect them to. The car is a 1980 MGB, and the manifold is from a 1972
- /html/mgs/2002-10/msg00175.html (7,615 bytes)
- 78. RE: MG Haiku - NO LBC CONTENT (score: 1)
- Author: "Steve Shoyer" <Steve@shoyer.com>
- Date: Wed, 9 Oct 2002 01:28:06 -0400
- (Sorry, I held back as long as I could...) My car burned in May Well, the sills are still OK Someday it will run. Heater mystery Did the factory just build The car around it? Parts cars are eyesores
- /html/mgs/2002-10/msg00252.html (7,629 bytes)
- 79. Correct length of 1980 MGB brake pipe? (score: 1)
- Author: "Steve Shoyer" <Steve@shoyer.com>
- Date: Sun, 20 Oct 2002 20:25:14 -0400
- I'm down to the last thing to fix on my car before it's running again, which is replacing the front left brake pipe. I purchased the copper-nickel set, and while I was bending the pipe, I found that
- /html/mgs/2002-10/msg00624.html (7,348 bytes)
- 80. After five months, I drove my car on the road! (score: 1)
- Author: "Steve Shoyer" <Steve@shoyer.com>
- Date: Mon, 21 Oct 2002 11:30:13 -0400
- I finally got the brakes bled about 11:00 last night after replacing the front left brake line and flexible hose, and the pedal was so firm I couldn't believe it (maybe I was just used to it going al
- /html/mgs/2002-10/msg00633.html (8,009 bytes)
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