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References: [ +from:ch155@FreeNet.Buffalo.EDU: 973 ]

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321. Re: Brakes on 69B (score: 1): Author: Art Pfenninger <ch155@FreeNet.Buffalo.EDU>; Date: Fri, 10 Jul 1998 06:43:23 -0400 (EDT); The heat anneals the metal pipe or copper washers. The process of cutting the tubing and bending it into a flare seems to harden it a little. When doing this don't quence the pipe in water or it will; /html/mgs/1998-07/msg00457.html (10,119 bytes)
322. Re: I may have found my problem (score: 1): Author: Art Pfenninger <ch155@FreeNet.Buffalo.EDU>; Date: Fri, 10 Jul 1998 06:56:57 -0400 (EDT); If you loosen the clamp on the distributor you will be able to remove the spindle. Are you sure that you replaced the timing gears right? ...Art; /html/mgs/1998-07/msg00458.html (7,860 bytes)
323. Re: New Owner with problems already! (score: 1): Author: Art Pfenninger <ch155@FreeNet.Buffalo.EDU>; Date: Fri, 10 Jul 1998 07:08:10 -0400 (EDT); Don, the sensor is held in place with a rubber gasket. In answer to the second question yes you can connect the two wires together and the fan will run but it will run all the time. There was a discu; /html/mgs/1998-07/msg00459.html (8,510 bytes)
324. Re: New Owner with problems already! (score: 1): Author: Art Pfenninger <ch155@FreeNet.Buffalo.EDU>; Date: Sat, 11 Jul 1998 16:01:11 -0400 (EDT); I got the switch from Parts America part #226203. It's an Imperial adjustable thermostat. The cost was $15 dollars and took longer to figure out the directions than to install it. There is a small ho; /html/mgs/1998-07/msg00524.html (7,904 bytes)
325. Re: Brakes on 69B (score: 1): Author: Art Pfenninger <ch155@FreeNet.Buffalo.EDU>; Date: Sat, 11 Jul 1998 16:10:05 -0400 (EDT); This really doesn't take the temper out of the lines it simply makes the bubble flare a little easier to seal. The lines are still solid and much stronger than copper. Even the flare is stronger than; /html/mgs/1998-07/msg00525.html (8,338 bytes)
326. Re: Is it worth my sixty something bucks? (score: 1): Author: Art Pfenninger <ch155@FreeNet.Buffalo.EDU>; Date: Sat, 11 Jul 1998 16:14:14 -0400 (EDT); They work great, in fact they lift both the front and rear at the same time. If you get one make sure that your jacking points are solid. If not you won't be able to use it. A sissors jack from the j; /html/mgs/1998-07/msg00526.html (7,511 bytes)
327. Re: Brakes on 69B (score: 1): Author: Art Pfenninger <ch155@FreeNet.Buffalo.EDU>; Date: Sat, 11 Jul 1998 16:21:23 -0400 (EDT); Per the previous posts over the last few days, my vote would be to make you own. A 54" straight pipe with a bubble flare end will cost about $3.50. Another $10 for a line bender (which you will have; /html/mgs/1998-07/msg00527.html (9,240 bytes)
328. Re: Brake Grabbing (score: 1): Author: Art Pfenninger <ch155@FreeNet.Buffalo.EDU>; Date: Sat, 11 Jul 1998 19:45:54 -0400 (EDT); I would say drive it for a few miles and see what happens. It could be that the pads just need a little "adjustment". The noise you hear might be the backing plate rubbing on the rotor. Try watching; /html/mgs/1998-07/msg00533.html (8,360 bytes)
329. Re: hard top shuffle (score: 1): Author: Art Pfenninger <ch155@FreeNet.Buffalo.EDU>; Date: Tue, 21 Jul 1998 08:52:43 -0400 (EDT); Check to see if your long distance bus company will take it. I some fenders shipped that way once and was cheap. ...Art; /html/mgs/1998-07/msg01109.html (7,991 bytes)
330. Re: Starting Problems - Again (score: 1): Author: Art Pfenninger <ch155@FreeNet.Buffalo.EDU>; Date: Tue, 21 Jul 1998 09:16:47 -0400 (EDT); It could be that your starter is bad. This needs to be checked under load so you probably should take it to a garage with the right equipment. If you remove the starter and take it in it may test ok; /html/mgs/1998-07/msg01111.html (9,682 bytes)
331. Re: Squeak - Squeak - Squeak (score: 1): Author: Art Pfenninger <ch155@FreeNet.Buffalo.EDU>; Date: Wed, 22 Jul 1998 08:42:21 -0400 (EDT); The squeak might be comming from the springs rubbing on the spring pan. The solution would be to remove the springs and put a small amount of grease on the ends of the springs. This can also be the c; /html/mgs/1998-07/msg01175.html (7,900 bytes)
332. Re: I"ve been dim for 8 years (score: 1): Author: Art Pfenninger <ch155@FreeNet.Buffalo.EDU>; Date: Thu, 23 Jul 1998 10:13:39 -0400 (EDT); The dash lights are always dim and much has been written about replacing them with Radio Shack 7.5 watt bulbs. As far as the headlights go pull them and clean the contacts, then pull the black wires; /html/mgs/1998-07/msg01242.html (7,101 bytes)
333. Re: Speedometer cable (score: 1): Author: Art Pfenninger <ch155@FreeNet.Buffalo.EDU>; Date: Fri, 24 Jul 1998 12:54:58 -0400 (EDT); Use powered graphite, it won't gum things up.; /html/mgs/1998-07/msg01303.html (6,879 bytes)
334. Re: Trouble in Hotlanta, GA (score: 1): Author: Art Pfenninger <ch155@FreeNet.Buffalo.EDU>; Date: Sun, 26 Jul 1998 10:28:03 -0400 (EDT); Check the connections on your coil, if they are reversed for the polarity of your car then your points will not last. ...Art; /html/mgs/1998-07/msg01400.html (10,026 bytes)
335. Re: Why do Miata's have their tops up? (score: 1): Author: Art Pfenninger <ch155@FreeNet.Buffalo.EDU>; Date: Sun, 26 Jul 1998 10:33:54 -0400 (EDT); It's universal! As a matter of fact, take notice of the majority of convertables they all seem to drive with the tops up. Must be waiting for the nice weather or something. ...Art; /html/mgs/1998-07/msg01402.html (9,486 bytes)
336. Re: Question on '59 MGA steering column (score: 1): Author: Art Pfenninger <ch155@FreeNet.Buffalo.EDU>; Date: Sun, 26 Jul 1998 10:46:06 -0400 (EDT); Dave the measurement from the dash to the bottom of the clamp (engine side) is 1/2". From the dash to the top of the clamp is 1". From the dash to the steertng wheel is 3" on mine but that depends wh; /html/mgs/1998-07/msg01404.html (8,164 bytes)
337. Re: MGB Tube ?'s and window seal stuff (score: 1): Author: Art Pfenninger <ch155@FreeNet.Buffalo.EDU>; Date: Mon, 27 Jul 1998 20:48:29 -0400 (EDT); I consider tube changes a DIY procedure mainly because I don't trust garages to do the work. The only tools needed are two tire irons. Moss sells them but you can make a set from an old car spring. I; /html/mgs/1998-07/msg01476.html (10,453 bytes)
338. Re: New MGA, the story goes on..... (score: 1): Author: Art Pfenninger <ch155@FreeNet.Buffalo.EDU>; Date: Tue, 28 Jul 1998 13:34:59 -0400 (EDT); ** no each cylinder is seperate ** Just be sure that the cylindes are not pitted. If so then you will ned to get them resleeved at someplace like Apple Hydraulics. ** Before you remove the MC from th; /html/mgs/1998-07/msg01504.html (10,753 bytes)
339. Re: Glue removal (score: 1): Author: Art Pfenninger <ch155@FreeNet.Buffalo.EDU>; Date: Tue, 28 Jul 1998 13:38:18 -0400 (EDT); Auto stores sell a product to remove decals, I think it costs about $7 dollars a can. You might also try an electric hair dryer. It is slower but works and may leave a sticky film. ...Art; /html/mgs/1998-07/msg01505.html (7,908 bytes)
340. Re: MGB Tube ?'s and window seal stuff (score: 1): Author: Art Pfenninger <ch155@FreeNet.Buffalo.EDU>; Date: Tue, 28 Jul 1998 21:18:40 -0400 (EDT); I've tried the jack but never had much luck, the bead needs to be broken before the tire iron will work, you can't break the bead with the iron. The liquid soap is a necessity most of the time. ...Ar; /html/mgs/1998-07/msg01524.html (12,119 bytes)

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