On Tue, 28 Jul 1998, Kevin Richards wrote:
> Hey listers.....
> Still in disbelief about this MGA that is now in my garage...
> I finally got her started, it was in fact a low charge on the battery.
> The only things that I cannot seem to get to work are the horn and the
> turn signals. Without a good wiring diagram (do not have the manual yet)
> I cannot find whether or not this is just a simple fuse or not. lights
> and everything work, but not the turn signals. Any help would be great.
> Also, I am going to rebuild the master cylinder this weekend. I have a
> couple of questions:
>
> 1. Since the reservoir was left dry for so long, can I try to fill the
> lines with fluid and bleed the clutch system. I am getting some pressure
> on the brake pedal, but not on the clutch. Is the pushrod just not
> pushing any fluid, and if so, why am I getting pressure on one side and
> not the other. Do the cylinders share the same pressure or are they
> separate systems?
********* no each cylinder is seperate
>
> 2.I bought the rebuild kit from Moss. Any problems or things to be
> careful of?
****** Just be sure that the cylindes are not pitted. If so then you will
ned to get them resleeved at someplace like Apple Hydraulics.
>
> 3. When I tackle the rebuild, what would be the general procedure? Any
> pitfalls that I need to watch out for other than carefully laying out
> all parts on a clean towel and labeling them accordingly?
***** Before you remove the MC from the car label which is the brake side
and which is the clutch side. THe brake side has an extra rubber seal
with it. Also be sure to look inside the bore of the cylinders to be sure
that there isn't a rubber washer stuck on the bottom. BTW You can do the
job without removing the MC if you want.
> > 4. What is the
best way to blow out all of the lines. If I
use > pressurized air, how can I attach the air to the brake/clutch lines?
>
> 5. Most importantly I need help with the basic rebuild procedure and the
> knowledge of the wise ones who have done this before.
> ***** All you really need to know is how the parts fit together which
you will see when you take the MC apart. When reinstalling it is easier to
attach the lines before bolting the unit down. Doing it this way gives you
more room to wiggle the lines. You will need a real short wrench to get
at the lines and this will take the longest time. Thats the reason you may
want to dismantle it in situ. When bleeding the brake lines make sure that
you adjust the brakes first, if not you may never be able to bleed them.
...Art
>
> Thanks so much for all the help.....this list is like having a mechanic
> in your back pocket.
>
> BTW The SO is CRAZY about the MGA (a little more than the B) She is
> already talking about how cool its going to be to take the A to her
> Company picnic next summer. (I let her take the B by herself this last
> picnic about a month ago.) Keep in mind, it was probably the 4th or 5th
> time the car was on the road since the rebuild.
> She had a blast and everyone (incl her boss who has a miata and thought
> HE was cool driving IT to the party) drooled over the car.
> Kinda cool to out-do your own boss every now and then.
> I think the SO has contracted the MG VIRUS.
>
> SHE's HOOKED and you know what??? I like it that way.
>
>
> Thanks
>
> Kevin Richards
> 77B
> 67B for sale
> 62MGA Mk II Happy to have escaped the Icy clutches of the parting out
> fate.
>
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