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161. [Mg-t] Steve Neal is looking for some MG TF Gas Tank End Panels. (score: 1): Author: John Seim <kingseim@earthlink.net>; Date: Tue, 29 Nov 2011 10:27:09 -0800; Steve Neal, of Skyhook Engineering, in Maine, is looking for some MG TF Gas Tank End Panels. If you have some to sell in good condition, please contact him at skyhook114@comcast.net John Seim Irvine,; /html/mg-t/2011-11/msg00034.html (7,239 bytes)
162. Re: [Mg-t] SU Carbs!?!?! (score: 1): Author: John Seim <kingseim@earthlink.net>; Date: Tue, 6 Dec 2011 06:13:09 -0800; Remove the rear piston bell chamber and piston. Verify that the piston can move within the piston bell chamber. Push it up all the way, and it should drop by itself, from gravity. There could be a de; /html/mg-t/2011-12/msg00012.html (8,548 bytes)
163. Re: [Mg-t] TD clutch rod broke (score: 1): Author: John Seim <kingseim@earthlink.net>; Date: Fri, 7 Oct 2011 04:59:39 -0700; The clutch rod is made from high carbon steel. It should be OK. There are a few components that can accelerate the breaking of a clutch rod. Mike O'Connor, of O'Connor Classic Automobiles, wrote up a; /html/mg-t/2011-10/msg00005.html (9,209 bytes)
164. Re: [Mg-t] more clutch woes (score: 1): Author: John Seim <kingseim@earthlink.net>; Date: Sat, 15 Oct 2011 22:37:03 -0700; Mike O'Connor at O'Connor Classic Automobiles started lengthening the clutch link rod some years ago. He also drilled another hole in the clutch lever, that hangs from the engine. I did some investig; /html/mg-t/2011-10/msg00018.html (9,750 bytes)
165. [Mg-t] Looking for Terry Baulch, Warwickshire, UK (score: 1): Author: John Seim <kingseim@earthlink.net>; Date: Thu, 20 Oct 2011 07:19:13 -0700; If anyone has current contact information for Terry Baulch, in Warwichshire, UK please contact me off list. Thanks, John Seim ______________________________________________ Mg-t@autox.team.net Donate; /html/mg-t/2011-10/msg00019.html (6,826 bytes)
166. Re: [Mg-t] Front Shock Bolts (score: 1): Author: John Seim <kingseim@earthlink.net>; Date: Tue, 22 Jan 2013 08:04:05 -0800; The bolts are 3/8"-20 BSF. The ones for the Armstrongs are shorter than those used for Girlings, as Girlings had a thicked mounting base. You will need one longer one, for the engine steady bracket.; /html/mg-t/2013-01/msg00008.html (12,628 bytes)
167. Re: [Mg-t] Front Shock Bolts (score: 1): Author: John Seim <kingseim@earthlink.net>; Date: Tue, 22 Jan 2013 08:30:29 -0800; The hole positions are the same for the front shocks, Girling or Armstrong. The rear hole positions are different. The later front wings have a hump in them, to accommodate the taller Armstrong shock; /html/mg-t/2013-01/msg00011.html (14,870 bytes)
168. Re: [Mg-t] Re TD Front Brake Backing Plates (score: 1): Author: John Seim <kingseim@earthlink.net>; Date: Fri, 15 Feb 2013 07:17:26 -0800; Aside from part numbers, I do not know the difference on the front plates. As to the rear plates, the slot for the wheel cylinder must have an arc. Have seen them reversed, and brake cylinder hangs u; /html/mg-t/2013-02/msg00003.html (10,378 bytes)
169. Re: [Mg-t] Engine cleaning - need Help (score: 1): Author: John Seim <kingseim@earthlink.net>; Date: Sat, 16 Feb 2013 07:49:06 -0800; Disconnect radiator hoses, before flushing engine. You could use phosphoric acid, just wash out with lots of water afterwards. Or, you could use oxalic acid. Again, wash out with lots of water afterw; /html/mg-t/2013-02/msg00010.html (11,044 bytes)
170. Re: [Mg-t] Restoration (score: 1): Author: John Seim <kingseim@earthlink.net>; Date: Sat, 16 Feb 2013 08:03:56 -0800; Nothing really needed to separate the rear fenders from the rear apron. I use a neoprene washer between the rear fender mount, and the chassis bracket. Bolt the fender to the top mount in the body tu; /html/mg-t/2013-02/msg00011.html (11,689 bytes)
171. Re: [Mg-t] TF Wood (score: 1): Author: John Seim <kingseim@earthlink.net>; Date: Sun, 3 Mar 2013 07:00:19 -0800; John, I had the same problem with a TF. Ended up bending away one of the tabs of the spare tire carrier, to where I could get a hack saw blade in there, to cut the bolt. Think that I had to do the sa; /html/mg-t/2013-03/msg00003.html (11,135 bytes)
172. [Mg-t] Looking for a 0.120" piston (score: 1): Author: John Seim <kingseim@earthlink.net>; Date: Tue, 26 Mar 2013 06:33:06 -0700; I am looking for a 0.120" piston. Anyone have one? Thanks, John Seim Irvine, CA ______________________________________________ Mg-t@autox.team.net Archive: http://www.team.net/archive; /html/mg-t/2013-03/msg00018.html (7,884 bytes)
173. [Mg-t] Fwd: Looking for a 0.120" piston (score: 1): Author: John Seim <kingseim@earthlink.net>; Date: Wed, 27 Mar 2013 05:40:31 -0700; Appears that I have found one. mturtu1648 is sending me one. Thanks all for your help. John Seim ______________________________________________ Mg-t@autox.team.net Archive: http://www.team.net/archiv; /html/mg-t/2013-03/msg00019.html (8,628 bytes)
174. Re: [Mg-t] TD running board treads (score: 1): Author: John Seim <kingseim@earthlink.net>; Date: Sun, 12 May 2013 10:52:56 -0700; I would recommend removing them. Easier to paint. You could buff, or scotchbright after blasting, to give a shine. I place a #10 nylon washer between the strips and the running board. Easier to clean; /html/mg-t/2013-05/msg00019.html (10,509 bytes)
175. Re: [Mg-t] TC Master Brake (score: 1): Author: John Seim <kingseim@earthlink.net>; Date: Thu, 6 Jun 2013 05:29:24 -0700; Aside from outward appearance, the internals of the TC and the TD master cylinder are the same. Get hold of a MG TD/TF Factory Workshop manual. Has much information on the master cylinder, as well as; /html/mg-t/2013-06/msg00004.html (9,587 bytes)
176. Re: [Mg-t] 165 vs 180 thermostat (score: 1): Author: John Seim <kingseim@earthlink.net>; Date: Thu, 6 Jun 2013 06:02:26 -0700; The 160 degree thermostat would be closer to factory original. If you have a heater for your car, you might want the 185 thermostat. The original bellows type would close off the by-pass opening, as; /html/mg-t/2013-06/msg00005.html (10,461 bytes)
177. Re: [Mg-t] Thermostat replacement (score: 1): Author: John Seim <kingseim@earthlink.net>; Date: Sat, 15 Jun 2013 08:56:13 -0700; I found this while doing a search. Jim Otto - Fulton Sylphon Bellows Engineer SYLENGR@aol.com 865-966-9494 10700 Alameda Drive Knoxville, TN 37932 Have not had any work done with Jim, but he says tha; /html/mg-t/2013-06/msg00025.html (10,597 bytes)
178. Re: [Mg-t] front seal (score: 1): Author: John Seim <kingseim@earthlink.net>; Date: Mon, 5 Aug 2013 06:55:44 -0700; You have to remove the oil pan and front timing cover. Chances are, the lip seal cut a groove into the cast iron front crank pulley. You might want to place a Speedi-Sleeve onto the pulley shaft, for; /html/mg-t/2013-08/msg00002.html (9,249 bytes)
179. Re: [Mg-t] Starter rebuild... (score: 1): Author: John Seim <kingseim@earthlink.net>; Date: Tue, 6 Aug 2013 14:18:20 -0700; Chances are, you have aluminum replacement coils in your starter. Originally, the brushes were crimped to the aluminum, as you cannot solder them. Might have been spot welded. When brushes need to be; /html/mg-t/2013-08/msg00006.html (10,380 bytes)
180. Re: [Mg-t] Gearbox 'remote control' (score: 1): Author: John Seim <kingseim@earthlink.net>; Date: Mon, 19 Aug 2013 06:26:31 -0700; The 3rd-4th shift rod is longer, than earlier models. Shift the transmission into 4th. That moves the rod forward, and places the shift pin at the rear of its travel. John Seim Irvine, CA flushed the; /html/mg-t/2013-08/msg00016.html (10,593 bytes)

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