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References: [ +from:kags@shaw.ca: 259 ]

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41. Re: Shock Curiosity (score: 1): Author: Earl Kagna <kags@shaw.ca>; Date: Thu, 10 Mar 2005 16:15:42 -0800; I believe that the 'gold' colour on the shock bodies indicates that the shock is a 'factory' rebuild - from the days when the factory was still doing this. Same as the red colour on the gearboxes, w; /html/healeys/2005-03/msg00202.html (9,840 bytes)
42. Re: Slave cylinder bleeding and mounting (score: 1): Author: Earl Kagna <kags@shaw.ca>; Date: Tue, 15 Mar 2005 09:16:51 -0800; You're welcome on the extended upper slave cyl. bolt trick - makes all the difference, doesn't it! Here's the procedure I use to bleed the slave cyl. It's easy because you can now undo it / re-insta; /html/healeys/2005-03/msg00337.html (9,862 bytes)
43. Re: BJ7 Windshield Chroming & Glass Tips? (score: 1): Author: Earl Kagna <kags@shaw.ca>; Date: Wed, 30 Mar 2005 10:08:50 -0800; Can't remember who posted the initial enquiry - too quick with the delete If that lister would like to reply, I would try and walk you through the process - just did a rechromed BJ8 screen yesterday.; /html/healeys/2005-03/msg00719.html (8,104 bytes)
44. Re: Rear shock mount question (score: 1): Author: Earl Kagna <kags@shaw.ca>; Date: Sun, 06 Feb 2005 13:18:23 -0800; One thing to note here - the Putzke tube shock conversion kit still uses the rear shock mount plate on the frame. A riser bracket is bolted to it that furnishes the upper shock mounting point for th; /html/healeys/2005-02/msg00217.html (9,749 bytes)
45. Re: Harmonic Balancer - Crankshaft Damper (score: 1): Author: Earl Kagna <kags@shaw.ca>; Date: Tue, 08 Feb 2005 08:52:00 -0800; One thing I ran into: My BJ8 is a very late one - uses the rubber damped pulley/damper assembly with the 1/2" belt, rather than the earlier 3/8". When we rebuilt the engine last year, we found that; /html/healeys/2005-02/msg00254.html (8,859 bytes)
46. Re: Carb Cleaning (score: 1): Author: Earl Kagna <kags@shaw.ca>; Date: Sat, 12 Feb 2005 13:15:26 -0800; I would be very cautious about using any type of media blasting to clean carb parts. It's too easy to mess up the fitting of the parts even slightly, which could compromise the functioning of the ca; /html/healeys/2005-02/msg00367.html (8,339 bytes)
47. Re: Martha's Vinyard Trip (score: 1): Author: Earl Kagna <kags@shaw.ca>; Date: Sun, 02 Jan 2005 09:20:59 -0800; Healey travel involving ferries is all but routine for those of us that live on Vancouver Island, or any of the small Islands in both BC and Washington State. I have had my Healeys on ferries litera; /html/healeys/2005-01/msg00028.html (8,804 bytes)
48. Re: Distributor rebuilder (score: 1): Author: Earl Kagna <kags@shaw.ca>; Date: Mon, 03 Jan 2005 17:55:56 -0800; This information is a bit old: A company called M&G Vintage Auto in Tuxedo Park, N.Y. advertised awhile back ( probably 3 - 4 years) in British Car mag that they rebuilt Lucas vaccum advance units.; /html/healeys/2005-01/msg00071.html (7,733 bytes)
49. Fw: H4 Carbs (score: 1): Author: Earl Kagna <kags@shaw.ca>; Date: Tue, 04 Jan 2005 15:27:52 -0800; As far as I can tell - this is taken from my original SU carb dealer literature book: All 100's (1953 - 56) carb spec. # is AUC718, pair H4. Standard needle - QW, rich - QA, weak - AT. Dashpot sprin; /html/healeys/2005-01/msg00093.html (7,722 bytes)
50. Re: BJ8 Speedometer (score: 1): Author: Earl Kagna <kags@shaw.ca>; Date: Sun, 09 Jan 2005 14:40:10 -0800; The re/white lead goes to the gauge illumination lamp socket - it should simply pop out of the back of the gauge body - it's held in place by spring fingers integral with the socket. A bit of sidewa; /html/healeys/2005-01/msg00163.html (7,348 bytes)
51. Re: BJ8 Drip Rail (score: 1): Author: Earl Kagna <kags@shaw.ca>; Date: Sat, 15 Jan 2005 09:13:40 -0800; Drip rail first, then the shroud. Lots of people forget about this, and have to partially remove the rear shroud much later to get the drip rail in - a real pain! I'm right there with the assembly o; /html/healeys/2005-01/msg00258.html (7,020 bytes)
52. Re: Manual for BJ8 (score: 1): Author: Earl Kagna <kags@shaw.ca>; Date: Sat, 15 Jan 2005 14:56:08 -0800; I agree with Mike Salter - the factory Workshop Manual is most useful, but any of the others, if you can find them, would be much better than having nothing - for the most part, they are copies of t; /html/healeys/2005-01/msg00274.html (8,291 bytes)
53. Re: Door Seal , Flurex, Black: 64 BJ* (score: 1): Author: Earl Kagna <kags@shaw.ca>; Date: Sun, 16 Jan 2005 14:56:12 -0800; Ted / Steve / Michael: I wrestled with this door seal retention problem awhile back. There were 2 different door seals for the later cars (maybe others for the earlier cars). The later 6 cyl. roadste; /html/healeys/2005-01/msg00306.html (10,426 bytes)
54. Re: tricarb manifold bolts (score: 1): Author: Earl Kagna <kags@shaw.ca>; Date: Sat, 22 Jan 2005 18:20:35 -0800; Hi Bruce: I'm pretty sure they are coarse thread (rather than some obtuse British bolt size)! Make sure to use a thread sealer on them - air leak prevention! Cheers, Earl Kagna Victoria, B.C. BT7 tri; /html/healeys/2005-01/msg00432.html (7,291 bytes)
55. Re: Pointless SU Fuel Pumps (score: 1): Author: Earl Kagna <kags@shaw.ca>; Date: Wed, 26 Jan 2005 09:47:44 -0800; MOPROD (and a couple of others, I believe) make an aftermarket electronic diaphragm type fuel pump (that goes tick, tick, tick) and bolts right in place of the original pump without having to modify; /html/healeys/2005-01/msg00487.html (8,301 bytes)
56. Re: Which White? (score: 1): Author: Earl Kagna <kags@shaw.ca>; Date: Wed, 26 Jan 2005 15:43:30 -0800; I'm looking at my copy of the Pikovnik book - after years of discussion of 'which white' (and also much discussion of most of the other Healey colours, as well), a lot of us have come to the conclus; /html/healeys/2005-01/msg00502.html (9,169 bytes)
57. Re: Lightened Flywheel and Mild Cams? (score: 1): Author: Earl Kagna <kags@shaw.ca>; Date: Fri, 28 Jan 2005 09:01:08 -0800; I have a Bolton Lightened flywheel in both Healeys - the BT7 was switched to a BJ8 flywheel and clutch at the time of installation several years ago - glad I did that! I'm very happy with the result; /html/healeys/2005-01/msg00549.html (9,530 bytes)
58. Re: rear end growl continued (score: 1): Author: Earl Kagna <kags@shaw.ca>; Date: Mon, 06 Dec 2004 20:01:49 -0800; I've been following this - good advice from Mike Salter and Jim Leblanc - you want to rule out prop shaft and gearbox/od unit before you pull the diff. that the pinion shims could be the problem - t; /html/healeys/2004-12/msg00128.html (8,859 bytes)
59. Re: Rear Axle Seal (score: 1): Author: Earl Kagna <kags@shaw.ca>; Date: Wed, 08 Dec 2004 12:12:22 -0800; I agree with Alan. The o-ring seals by being properly 'squeezed' between the hub flange and the axle flange. The paper gasket is there basically as a dust seal - if you coat the paper with a sealer,; /html/healeys/2004-12/msg00175.html (8,677 bytes)
60. Re: Transmission rebuild (score: 1): Author: Earl Kagna <kags@shaw.ca>; Date: Tue, 21 Dec 2004 22:00:44 -0800; I usually try for 6 - 8 thou end float on the lay gear - less than 6 thou and it becomes very difficult to assemble. Be sure to use the correct part - one with oil channels on both faces of the wash; /html/healeys/2004-12/msg00497.html (9,130 bytes)

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