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1. Re: England Changing??? (score: 1): Author: "J.E.A.Rich" <jear@rmi.net>; Date: Fri, 01 Jun 2001 18:05:20 -0600; The Irish tried it like that in the 50's and it didn't work worth a hoot! Cheers, "Bob".; /html/british-cars/2001-06/msg00003.html (7,987 bytes)
2. Re: SU Fuel Pumps (score: 1): Author: "J.E.A.Rich" <jear@rmi.net>; Date: Mon, 23 Apr 2001 09:01:30 -0600; I was weaned on SU pumps and overhaul them to supplement my pension. It is important to make sure the points "turn over" when screwing the diaphragm into the centre of the points mechanism. As you s; /html/british-cars/2001-04/msg00056.html (8,143 bytes)
3. Re: help with TD wiper motor (score: 1): Author: "J.E.A.Rich" <jear@rmi.net>; Date: Sat, 31 Mar 2001 08:40:51 -0700; Are you sure you have a 12 volt wiper motor? Its very difficult to distinguish the difference between 6 & 12 v motors. The info should be on the base plate. Cheers, "Bob".; /html/british-cars/2001-03/msg00039.html (7,245 bytes)
4. Re: refitting pistons (score: 1): Author: "J.E.A.Rich" <jear@rmi.net>; Date: Wed, 17 Jan 2001 19:11:42 -0700; I would start by removing one piston and then its top ring. Place the ring back in the bore and determine its 'gap', i.e. the distance from one end of the ring to the other. I don't know what the re; /html/british-cars/2001-01/msg00054.html (8,435 bytes)
5. Re: refitting pistons (score: 1): Author: "J.E.A.Rich" <jear@rmi.net>; Date: Thu, 18 Jan 2001 09:32:08 -0700; If you haven't got the head on, it shoudn't be hard at all. With the head on and the plugs out it should be equally easy. It should not be "tight". Cheers, "Bob"; /html/british-cars/2001-01/msg00057.html (7,395 bytes)
6. Re: e-bay (score: 1): Author: "J.E.A.Rich" <jear@rmi.net>; Date: Wed, 31 Jan 2001 17:35:15 -0700; I would consider it to be very poor form, you do one or the other, not both simultaneously. Cheers, "Bob".; /html/british-cars/2001-01/msg00095.html (7,183 bytes)
7. Re: TR7 BFH#40 (score: 1): Author: "J.E.A.Rich" <jear@rmi.net>; Date: Mon, 18 Dec 2000 17:55:04 -0700; Why bother to purge the oil out of the line to the gauge? It isn't going to hurt anything. It'll just get compressed and transmit the pressure behind it. Cheers and good luck, "Bob".; /html/british-cars/2000-12/msg00104.html (9,935 bytes)
8. Re: Rebuilt engine is back to life (score: 1): Author: "J.E.A.Rich" <jear@rmi.net>; Date: Mon, 18 Dec 2000 18:05:50 -0700; The needles may be worn but they should slide all the way into the jets anyway. The hole in the jet is 90 thou' and the needle at its widest is 89. It sounds as though you are a little anxious, give; /html/british-cars/2000-12/msg00105.html (8,878 bytes)
9. Re: TR7 BFH#24-d (score: 1): Author: "J.E.A.Rich" <jear@rmi.net>; Date: Tue, 07 Nov 2000 17:14:28 -0700; For what its worth, a bottom tap is also called a plug tap. The easy way to shorten a tap is to grind it. "Bob".; /html/british-cars/2000-11/msg00029.html (8,809 bytes)
10. Re: NOTICE OF REVOCATION OF INDEPENDENCE (score: 1): Author: "J.E.A.Rich" <jear@rmi.net>; Date: Wed, 15 Nov 2000 17:34:08 -0700; But even boiling water doesn't work properly when water boils at 200:F in the mountains. Cheers, "Bob".; /html/british-cars/2000-11/msg00124.html (9,728 bytes)
11. Re: MG throwing oil (score: 1): Author: "J.E.A.Rich" <jear@rmi.net>; Date: Mon, 27 Nov 2000 16:36:00 -0700; The first thing I would do is change the oil filter. It sounds to me that it is plugged as it has its own relief valve. If that doesn't solve the problem let us know. Cheers, "Bob".; /html/british-cars/2000-11/msg00182.html (7,677 bytes)
12. Re: TR7 BFH#33 (score: 1): Author: "J.E.A.Rich" <jear@rmi.net>; Date: Mon, 27 Nov 2000 18:14:12 -0700; As an M.G. person I find it difficult to understand why anyboby would even buy, let alone attempt to fix, a Triumph younger than a TR-6 but I truly admire your courage in writing of all your trials; /html/british-cars/2000-11/msg00185.html (9,388 bytes)
13. Re: Different colors on spokes (score: 1): Author: "J.E.A.Rich" <jear@rmi.net>; Date: Fri, 01 Sep 2000 17:56:34 -0600; I can tell that the TR brigade never look at M.G.'s. My 1933 M.G. L1 Special has been around for some time with a BRG body and wings and yellow wires. It is known as the "John Deere". Cheers, "Bob".; /html/british-cars/2000-09/msg00004.html (8,816 bytes)
14. Re: Leaky TR8 Steering Rack (score: 1): Author: "J.E.A.Rich" <jear@rmi.net>; Date: Wed, 06 Sep 2000 20:06:38 -0600; I'd try duct tape first. Its never failed me yet. Cheers, "Bob".; /html/british-cars/2000-09/msg00031.html (8,016 bytes)
15. Re: TR4 Part available in Connecticut (score: 1): Author: "J.E.A.Rich" <jear@rmi.net>; Date: Sun, 10 Sep 2000 17:44:14 -0600; What did you use to tie your file on with? I got nothing so it must have been a granny Knot. Cheers, "Bob".; /html/british-cars/2000-09/msg00040.html (7,569 bytes)
16. Re: Seat pan - Help identifying (score: 1): Author: "J.E.A.Rich" <jear@rmi.net>; Date: Thu, 06 Jul 2000 19:23:40 -0600; The seat pans in your pictures would certainly fit a 1961 BT7 Austin-Healey. That's the 3000 model with the seats in the back for those unfortunate parents with leg-less children. Cheers, "Bob".; /html/british-cars/2000-07/msg00021.html (7,739 bytes)
17. Re: Bad Rubber Parts from Moss (score: 1): Author: "J.E.A.Rich" <jear@rmi.net>; Date: Tue, 27 Jun 2000 13:14:07 -0600; I couldn't agree more! I recently purchased a TD M.G. rolling chassis but with basically all the other parts in boxes. Every rubber piece except the gaiters for the steering rack fell apert when I to; /html/british-cars/2000-06/msg00089.html (8,516 bytes)
18. Re: Stainless Steel Brake Lines (score: 1): Author: "J.E.A.Rich" <jear@rmi.net>; Date: Mon, 15 May 2000 13:01:55 -0600; The worst thing about stainless steel is that it work hardens. I replaced my Healey pipes with copper tubes. Much easier to handle. Cheers, "Bob". --; /html/british-cars/2000-05/msg00006.html (8,493 bytes)

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