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301. Re: [Bricklin] Jan iss of The Brickline (score: 1)
Author: "Greg Schroeder" <gschroeder@comcast.net>
Date: Fri, 5 Mar 2010 11:01:26 -0600
Cover Volume 35, Number 1 January 2010 Inside Volume 35, Number 1 Greg 0036 _______________________________________________ Bricklin@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested
/html/bricklin/2010-03/msg00007.html (10,429 bytes)

302. [Bricklin] Rocker Stud Coming Loose (score: 1)
Author: "Greg Schroeder" <gschroeder@comcast.net>
Date: Tue, 23 Mar 2010 15:32:24 -0500
I continue to have a few rolling rocker studs loosen after driving a little. I was told by my local auto parts to use cylinder sleeve retainer, but that is not working to well. Can anyone recommend s
/html/bricklin/2010-03/msg00039.html (7,044 bytes)

303. Re: [Bricklin] Rocker Stud Coming Loose (score: 1)
Author: "Greg Schroeder" <gschroeder@comcast.net>
Date: Tue, 23 Mar 2010 16:21:44 -0500
Thanks, but for the AMC they are screw in studs instead of pressed in. For the 75 Ford Motor this may work. I have some permenant loctite(Red), but it indicates heat need to remove. I am not sure if
/html/bricklin/2010-03/msg00041.html (7,396 bytes)

304. Re: [Bricklin] Strange electrical problem (score: 1)
Author: "Greg Schroeder" <gschroeder@comcast.net>
Date: Tue, 23 Mar 2010 21:42:39 -0500
I had a similar problem after backing out of the garage and then nothing. I found it to be a fusible link at the ammeter. The nut had just loosened. Once I cleaned the post and tightened the nut bac
/html/bricklin/2010-03/msg00045.html (7,095 bytes)

305. [Bricklin] Finally found my air leak (score: 1)
Author: "Greg Schroeder" <gschroeder@comcast.net>
Date: Thu, 25 Mar 2010 14:50:23 -0500
Seems that after replacing all the vinyl in the compression fitting with brass, replacing the pump (since it was leaking) and checking fittings over and over with soapy water for leaks I decided to b
/html/bricklin/2010-03/msg00053.html (7,205 bytes)

306. Re: [Bricklin] AC evaporator and expansion valve (score: 1)
Author: "Greg Schroeder" <gschroeder@comcast.net>
Date: Tue, 6 Apr 2010 14:13:43 -0500
The expansion valve is behind the instrument panel on the 74, I do not believe it moved with the engine change. Here are some photos at this link. http://s2.photobucket.com/albums/y5/play8or9/Behind%
/html/bricklin/2010-04/msg00007.html (8,275 bytes)

307. [Bricklin] Car will not start. Any suggestions (score: 1)
Author: "Greg Schroeder" <gschroeder@comcast.net>
Date: Wed, 28 Apr 2010 16:24:24 -0500
I finished redoing the rocker studs with Permatex Red a couple of days ago. I go to start the car and it just cranks. Looks like I am getting fuel and compression, but it does not appear to be gettin
/html/bricklin/2010-04/msg00014.html (8,139 bytes)

308. Re: [Bricklin] Car will not start. Any suggestions (score: 1)
Author: "Greg Schroeder" <gschroeder@comcast.net>
Date: Wed, 28 Apr 2010 22:45:26 -0500
Well I just got a backfire. Which would make me believe the timing may be off. Seems like I had a similar problem after my engine rebuild and it seemed the firing was at the opposite point of where i
/html/bricklin/2010-04/msg00019.html (8,175 bytes)

309. Re: [Bricklin] Car will not start. Any suggestions (score: 1)
Author: "Greg Schroeder" <gschroeder@comcast.net>
Date: Fri, 30 Apr 2010 00:51:34 -0500
OK, looks like I have found the problem. It seems that I had tightened the rockers just a little bit to much this time. I had used the same method several times while trying to fight the issue with t
/html/bricklin/2010-04/msg00020.html (8,783 bytes)

310. [Bricklin] Engine Problem Running Correctly (score: 1)
Author: "Greg Schroeder" <gschroeder@comcast.net>
Date: Fri, 28 May 2010 18:41:23 -0500
I am having a problem with the engine when it is running like it is starving for air. It seems to run better if I remove a vacuum hoses than when they are attached. Engine starts fine every time, but
/html/bricklin/2010-05/msg00018.html (7,418 bytes)

311. Re: [Bricklin] Engine Problem Running Correctly (score: 1)
Author: "Greg Schroeder" <gschroeder@comcast.net>
Date: Sat, 29 May 2010 00:58:30 -0500
I believe I have found the problem. Checked the compression with my thumb over the spark plug hole and found one cylinder that I could feel the vacuum on the intake, but nothing on the compression st
/html/bricklin/2010-05/msg00021.html (7,375 bytes)

312. Re: [Bricklin] 74 alternator (score: 1)
Author: "Greg Schroeder" <gschroeder@comcast.net>
Date: Sat, 29 May 2010 14:22:50 -0500
I normally cross refrerence a 74 Javlin, but probably any 74 AMC will work. I replaced mine with a stock amperage, you may want to look at a higher amperage if you have updated your car with additio
/html/bricklin/2010-05/msg00024.html (6,611 bytes)

313. Re: [Bricklin] Door latch hangs up (score: 1)
Author: "Greg Schroeder" <gschroeder@comcast.net>
Date: Tue, 1 Jun 2010 17:56:54 -0500
It could be the solenoid is pulling partially. You can also close the latch with the door up with a screwdriver. Then see if the solenoid releases it. If not, you can release it with the safety latch
/html/bricklin/2010-06/msg00003.html (7,128 bytes)

314. Re: [Bricklin] Model Bricklin (score: 1)
Author: "Greg Schroeder" <gschroeder@comcast.net>
Date: Sun, 6 Jun 2010 13:36:39 -0500
This is the model that Diecasm has been working with Bricklin International members to produce and to try to get as accurate as possible. There are several versions at various pricing. They have aske
/html/bricklin/2010-06/msg00014.html (6,997 bytes)

315. [Bricklin] Electrical Questions Alternator and Air system (score: 1)
Author: "Greg Schroeder" <gschroeder@comcast.net>
Date: Sun, 6 Jun 2010 16:14:44 -0500
Just an update. I have replaced the bent valve and now everythig is running well. At least engine wise. It seemed my alternator was not keeping my battery at full charge. I checked it with a volt met
/html/bricklin/2010-06/msg00015.html (8,847 bytes)

316. Re: [Bricklin] Model Bricklin (score: 1)
Author: "Greg Schroeder" <gschroeder@comcast.net>
Date: Sun, 6 Jun 2010 18:14:07 -0500
Diecasm/Automodello are the same people and they are the only point of distribution. I believe the 94.95 is the cheapest of the series. There is a founder edition autographed by Herb Grasse and ther
/html/bricklin/2010-06/msg00018.html (7,550 bytes)

317. Re: [Bricklin] Electrical Questions Alternator and Air system (score: 1)
Author: "Greg Schroeder" <gschroeder@comcast.net>
Date: Sun, 6 Jun 2010 18:19:55 -0500
I keep an LED meter connected at the battery and laying on my console so I can monitor the battery at all times. I have had battery and alternator issues in the past, so I do not want to take a chan
/html/bricklin/2010-06/msg00019.html (7,690 bytes)

318. Re: [Bricklin] Electrical Questions Alternator and Air system (score: 1)
Author: "Greg Schroeder" <gschroeder@comcast.net>
Date: Mon, 7 Jun 2010 15:31:33 -0500
Just got back from having the alternator tested. It failed. They have ordered another and I should get it tomorrow. They are suppose to test it for me and give me a readout of the voltage. Hopefully
/html/bricklin/2010-06/msg00025.html (7,908 bytes)

319. Re: [Bricklin] Electrical Questions Alternator and Air system (score: 1)
Author: "Greg Schroeder" <gschroeder@comcast.net>
Date: Thu, 10 Jun 2010 20:13:18 -0500
New alternator passed at the parts store and seems to be working in the car, but I am seeing around 12 volts and I was expecting higher. It does seem to keep the battery LED at green and does not go
/html/bricklin/2010-06/msg00027.html (9,689 bytes)

320. Re: [Bricklin] Electrical Questions Alternator and Air system (score: 1)
Author: "Greg Schroeder" <gschroeder@comcast.net>
Date: Thu, 10 Jun 2010 20:22:32 -0500
Like usual, I keep searching a little longer and find an answer. Seems the mini draws about 250 amps where the full size will be at least double that number. So going back the original will not help
/html/bricklin/2010-06/msg00028.html (7,929 bytes)

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